Thread: Divot in anvil size

Originally Posted by medicevans

Yes, but what is that correct size/depth? Lol.

I expect it depends on the washers you intend to use and how much you mushroom the pins over them, if you mean a shallow divot for resting the razor pivot pin in while peening over its opposite end during final assembly. Do you have a razor and a micrometer that you can take a reading from? Mine works out to around 3.54mm dia by 0.96mm depth, but yours may well be different.

If you know a jeweller or a potter who has one of those little electric kilns, then they can be used for heat treating.

Regards,
Neil

Then one can always add a little touch to the pin heads by engraving the divot and a matching striker.

Originally Posted by Neil Miller

I expect it depends on the washers you intend to use and how much you mushroom the pins over them, if you mean a shallow divot for resting the razor pivot pin in while peening over its opposite end during final assembly. Do you have a razor and a micrometer that you can take a reading from? Mine works out to around 3.54mm dia by 0.96mm depth, but yours may well be different.

If you know a jeweller or a potter who has one of those little electric kilns, then they can be used for heat treating.

Regards,
Neil

Yeah, it was really more tongue in cheek, making fun of myself. I have a set of calipers that will work fine for taking measurements from the four out five razors I have around. I don't know why I didn't think of that sooner. Lol

Unless I can find an experienced heat treater in this forum or BladeForums that will do them cheaper, I'm planning on sending them to Peter's Heat Treating out east. They do really well with my knives.

I am not so sure that you need to heat treat your anvil. One of the rules of blacksmithing is, you never hit anything heat treated with something heat treated. Hammers are heat treated, therefore anvils are not. Tools like punches are heat treated on the business end, but the end you strike with the hammer is not. For that matter, most blacksmith hammers are only heat treated on the face - the rest is left untreated. To heat treat a punch, I just heat the tip to critical temp (non magnetic) and quench in oil. The rest of the punch never gets close to critical temp. When I temper, I start heating the middle of the punch with a propane torch and watch as the colors move toward the tip, cooling in oil when I get to peacock blue, or whatever Rockwell color I'm going for. If you still want to heat treat your anvil, make sure any holes and/or divits are done first - your can't drill heat treated steel easily. Good luck, and keep us informed about your progress. Your anvil is a work of art - my razor anvil is a piece of railroad track with a polished top.

Anvils are heat treated. Usually to low 50s Rc. If they weren't the corners would mushroom over, and the faces would ding.

I'm not using these little things to move hot metal, regardless. They are for pinning razors and pocket knives. They have been used for over 200 years in the cutlery industry, often being referred to as "stiddies", "stiddy", or "steady rest".

Ah yes, stiddies. More pictures of vintage stiddies here.

There are also some new, wonderfully precise ones, just like yours, pictured on that page. They were made by Great Lakes Waterjet, Inc, sometime prior to that 2009 thread.

Regards,
Neil

I use a big 40lb block of steel I picked up from the scrap yard, works perfectly. after I finish peening the razor I punch a hole out of a strip of masking tape the exact same size as the washer, I then place directly over the pin head and use a 2000 grit wet & dry paper and a smooth and polish to a high finish, finally a cotton rag with a little brasso.

Jamie.

No divot, just a flat jewelers anvil.
Use the most basic tools possible. It will make you a better craftsman.

Originally Posted by celticcrusader

I use a big 40lb block of steel I picked up from the scrap yard, works perfectly. after I finish peening the razor I punch a hole out of a strip of masking tape the exact same size as the washer, I then place directly over the pin head and use a 2000 grit wet & dry paper and a smooth and polish to a high finish, finally a cotton rag with a little brasso.

Jamie.

Exact same way I do it.Love the Anvil Jamie,Just perfect for Throwing in the duffle bag in case you have to tighten a pivot whilst on the Road

My Anvil ,Body workers Dolly,3 bux at autozone,grind and cleanup the flats,no divot,Home made hammers,The jacobs, I cut the pins,chuck them,file the ends,throw on a washer,TAP TAP TAP,start the mushroom, shove it thru the scales,cut to size and proceed.