Thread: Chopped Blade Methods

Hey All,

Wondering if anyone has suggestions on how to chop a blade to create a shorter razor, á la a Dubl Duck Dwarf. Scales seem straightforward, but worried about ruining the rest of the blade if I get to aggressive with a grinder. But given the hardness I assume cutting is out of the question. Anyone done this?

If it heats up you can wreck the temper...

Dremmel cutter wheel, Stone Wheel Grinder or Belt Grinder perhaps a combination of them use whatever you are most comfortable using but go SLOW, dip in cold water after each pass and start at the same point...
Just so long as you go slow it makes no difference what you use to do the work

Thanks Glen - will do. I guess I could just buy a Dwarf but not sure how available they are. Plus it'll mean my wife gets me out of the house.
And I suppose I have to not work it with too much force or risk tweaking the rest of the blade. Will give it a go...

I shortened this one because it was already partially broken off at the point. I did not let the steel touch the grinding wheel for more than one second at a time, then dipped it in water each time. It never got hot because I did it slowly and carefully. I also did the same thing to a Shumate but haven't made the scales yet. Good luck with yours.

Jerry
____

Thanks Jerry-

I'll do that. Seems like you have to be real careful when you get to the edge cause it's so thin the wheel could just catch and bend it over. A light touch I guess. Thanks again

Shane

And wait for something that's already broken. You can usually pick them up cheap. No reason to chop a good blade.

EXCELLENT point.

Originally Posted by RoyalCake

Thanks Jerry-

I'll do that. Seems like you have to be real careful when you get to the edge cause it's so thin the wheel could just catch and bend it over. A light touch I guess. Thanks again

Shane

___________________________________

Shane

You will find that not only will a blade bend, it just might shatter because its hardness naturally makes it brittle. Be careful, go slowly. Keep the blade flat on the tool rest. Very important...........

Jerry

A slow-running wheel running in water - like the type you can get cheap to sharpen scissors and knifes (you don't have to spend as much as on s Tormek, or even a Scheppach) will do. Keep the blade oriented right and there will be little or no danger of shattering. The fineness of the wheel helps too - coarse grit belts have a habit of chipping thin, hardened steel.

At a pinch, even some belt grinders (with belt drive and remote, shielded motor) can have a 'sprinkler' attachment fitted to them. Mucho messy, though.

With grinding the risk with overheating isn't just confined to when the thin part of the blade is being worked on - the thicker part and the spine have to have a lot of metal taken away, and a lot more time spent on them compared to the thin part, and this generates a lot of heat that radiates away from the heat source very quickly.

Regards,
Neil

Question!!!!

If the blade is laid flat with the edge and the spine horizontal to what ever is being used to remove unwanted metal even if the tool rest was very close to whatever was being used; I would envision that it would be very easy for the thin edge to shatter, or at least bend.

Would it be better to have the edge on the tool rest with the spine at a vertical angle/Rather than the horizontal??

Just wondering guys! I’ve been told that the only stupid question is the one that isn’t asked!!