Thread: Edge Restoration - Heavy Bevel setting

Many thanks to Glen for posting this, very informative for new guys just getting into str8 razors.

The first time I needed to breadknife a razor was to remove a frown and used the 90 degree method. After removing the frown I proceeded to rest the bevel and thought I would never get it set. After a lot of stokes, a lot of time and some cussing I finally got the bevel set, moved up the progression and ended up with a very nice shaving razor.

A couple of years later I found a video of a fellow taking out a chip and started breadknifing at about a 45 degree angle and it didn't take long for him to remove the chip. The next time I had a chip to remove I used this method and it really shortened the time it took to remove the chip, set the bevel and finish honing the razor due to not having to remove as much metal using this method.

This method also allowed my to take a second look at chipped razors that I would not even have considered before.

Question. After 'touchdown', as going from 3 layers to one and beginning again, how do you judge the improvement?
If you are popping hairs and pocketknife-sharp at 3 layers and go to one, how do you judge the improvement while progressing?
After many multi-layer fiascos, I have taken to dulling it one stroke on a glass bottle and then bringing them back with one layer. Seems to mean I am hitting the edge again, positive along all the edge. I hate going back to the hones. I truly try to teach myself every time I have problems and remember the lessons learned. I have given up on shaving with any more than 2 layers. Mostly!

There is the examination with a loupe to see the shoulder come down to the edge but both work.

Originally Posted by RezDog

There is the examination with a loupe to see the shoulder come down to the edge but both work.

I dunno. I think I am done as I shave with it. My loupe judgement is notsogood.

Good stuff here.
Replying to keep track.

Originally Posted by Chevhead

Good stuff here.
Replying to keep track.

Hey Ed just go to thread tools, subscribe to thread

Excellent tutorial Glen. Thanks.

I wish I'd seen this before taking some chips out of an old Torrey a few weeks ago. It came out well, but I took away more steel than I wanted to. I'll try this next time. Thanks for posting.

“I used this method and it really shortened the time it took to remove the chip, set the bevel and finish honing the razor due to not having to remove as much metal using this method.”

Actually… you are removing the same amount of metal, no matter how you do it.

You still have to hone to the bottom of the chip.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Bevel setting on a diamond plate can lead to chipping,.

Nit picking here. When I see "chipping" I think of a brittle fracture. I think people, me included, often use the term to describe a notch in the edge. At the 100x level of magnification I think of these notches as four different categories.
1. Actual chipping where the steel looks to be broken off.
2. A notch which is actually an exposed, rogue, deeper stria that would be tooth if it was consistent.
3. A single place where the edge just seemed to crumble away.
4. A place where the steel looks torn out, possibly after being weakened by 2.

Which of these, assuming that you agree with my categories, do you think are caused by diamond plates?

Incidentally, "The science of sharp" site has a blog discussing very non intuitive evidence regarding scratch depth vs diamond plate grit.