Quote Originally Posted by onimaru55 View Post
I'd probably try to smooth that area top left too. Just to get rid of any sharp edges
I've lapped the long right side smooth, though the surface has a nick or two. The top surface was lapped flat as the first operation. The craggey upper left section, I've used w/ the DMT to generate slurry, rubbing the dmt at an angle towards the outside. This makes the jagged section a lower surface than the main honing surface.

What I'm not entirely clear on is the nicks in the top surface about 1.5-2" up from the bottom right edge. It's lapped flat, but is flat sufficient to keep from grabbing an edge? That question applies for the 1/2 are in the top center. I'm afraid to stroke over it for fear it will grab and destroy an edge.

Zeth - Wow. I strongly suspect I over-did the slurry on the first 4 blades, but other than that, I was very close to the process you describe. I would think that working the slurry that long would give the most thorough breakdown of the abrasive layers, yielding the finest grit.

'Hearing that both HHT & TPT seem to degrade, but the edges are still superior is sorta rocket fuel for my head. If you're able, could you talk about how thick/thin the slurry is that you start out with? Or maybe point me to the link you & Jim have talked about this process? The Williams edge isn't very high on those tests either, but dang! The results are fabulous. I'll have to try this. I'm not as concerned about speed as I am result. Speed-wise, circles w/ water give a very smooth keen edge in little time.

My progression as is: Bevel set on Norton 1k. 'Typically, 20 circles, then test after 10 x-strokes (for a non-smiling blade - more w/ a smile) I don't leave that stone until the edge shaves arm/leg hair at the skin level all along the edge. From there, I do 30-40 small diameter circles on the 4k side of the Norton, then usually 20 x-strokes until I begin feeling some drag on a TPT. From there, a Naniwa 8k: 40 circles, 20 x-strokes until a strong TPT is all along the blade. C12k next. I raise a slurry w/ a synthetic ruby stone, to the consistency of about 1% milk. 40 circles, 20 x-strokes and test. TPT should be very strong here, or 20 more strokes. Mainly on a smiling blade or one with some warp, if a section is not fully keen, I'll do 20-30 more circles, focusing a slight lifting on the heel to put the cutting action on the toe, and usually a tiny bit of rotational torque on the shank to push a bit of the bevel into the stone. This works for the cranky blades. Flat blades don't need it at all. Before the arrival of the blue rock, I'd either ad a layer of tape and give 7-8 more strokes for a micro-bevel on a fully dry stone, or let the stone dry and take 10 x-strokes on the opposite side of the c12k where I drew a diamond-shaped grid w/ a crox crayon. The crox smoothed out the harshness, as did the slurry when I started using that on the chinese rock.