Thread: One Stone Honing.. from Lynn and Glen

I would hit the nearest Cabinet/Glass shop and see if they will give you a Polished Marble/Granite sample piece at about 4x10 I got one free that I use for Lapping film if I want to use it

Originally Posted by gssixgun

I would hit the nearest Cabinet/Glass shop and see if they will give you a Polished Marble/Granite sample piece at about 4x10 I got one free that I use for Lapping film if I want to use it

That combined with this http://straightrazorpalace.com/srpwi...ne_Lapping_101 is going to get the job done. So a King 1k, a Nani 12k and the aforementioned lapping material should help the budge newbie... Of course, watching and learning from you and Lynn's uber helpful videos and posts.

Love the SRP! Straight Razor Peoples!

Full credit to the OSH (that's One Stone Hone Yo (the Yo is silent)) videos for teachin' this hillbilly how to use his coticule.

I honed two razors today, one on 4/8k Norton, the other on an antique Belgian rock.

Shaved half and half. (trimming around beard-not full shave)

BUT

the Coticule won.

And I didn't know how to get a decent edge from it before. I was getting better shaves off the 8k.

Technique is important, vids rock.

watch
do
learn
repeat

Very enlightening! I can tell from the (horrible) sound the process is making that you're using a LOT more pressure than I do all the way through. Even your 'barely touching' it is noisy, while my sharpening is virtually silent. That could be my issue.

Originally Posted by jgjgjg

Very enlightening! I can tell from the (horrible) sound the process is making that you're using a LOT more pressure than I do all the way through. Even your 'barely touching' it is noisy, while my sharpening is virtually silent. That could be my issue.

Caution... microphones can give you a very bad sound quality.
For some reason they couple to grit and scratch sounds way better than
you expect.

Sound is important but pressure needs to not deform the razor badly.
Pressure can flex the blade in ways that cause problems or you may
find that there is a lot of pressure on the spine and uneven pressure
on the thin edge.

Use a black magic marker and make sure the hone and blade are
in contact as you expect.... all the way to the edge.

Since you are not honing 200 razors a day I recommend lighter pressure
from 1k and finer. I know I use more pressure to start at 1k but
lighten up a lot at 1k before I am half done. This is to make sure I have a quality
bevel at "no pressure". With a quality no pressure bevel finer hones will do
their job a lot better.

I have tried extra pressure and noted with a magic marker and magnification
that I end up up with a thin no hone line at the edge. I can also detect this
with a single hair test. A bevel that is not 100% will have smooth and
grippy regions. The occasional boar bristle shed from a cheep boar brush
makes a good 'probe' for this.

There are numerous "stabilizing" features built into razor design.

Nifty, thanks for the post. I tried the technique based on the idea that I was using far too light a touch, and it didn't go well. I've reached sort of a plateau. I can shave well enough with my own edges. Sometimes (as in this case) it needs some CrOx work before the strop. Other times the strop is fine, but the edges are never as good the edge the razor had on it when I received it from one of our forum members.

I'll try this method again, but with a light touch all the way through and see how that goes.

Probing and Testing: apparently I hone a lot on this one razor. This last weekend while I was honing I looked at one of my daughters and said "come here sweety!". She get's this wild look her eye, grabs her pony tail with both hands and says "NO DADDY! You're going to give me a bald spot like you have!".

I found the exact same thing to be true. Dance with the one you bought. Got a good corticle and spent the time to learn it. She seems to like Dovos,Ducks ,and most of all Bokers best. But will shave ready all that blades I have met. Thank-you for your input and insight.