Thread: natural duel stone a llyn melynllyn and dragons tongue

you can go straight from the 8k norton to the DT and just use water 15-25 laps on water should be good. to the LM on just water 15-35 and on the WT with just water 15-25

Shams test of the three stones is at Testing melynllyn ,dragons tongue, slate,yellow lake stone.

Originally Posted by drwextra

Shams test of the three stones is at Testing melynllyn ,dragons tongue, slate,yellow lake stone.

2 things are strange here.

1) Why would he jump from 6k to these stones? Couldn't he go a little higher before testing these?

2) He doesn't mention any use of slurry.

Unlike that thread that seems to tell people to avoid buying the stones, I, personally, am convinced of my LM, if used in the conditions I mentioned above:

"- Use more laps with slurry than without
- You can use oil or glycerin instead of plain water. Some might say that this enhance the sharpness and smoothness of the edge. Personally I haven't found a significant difference, but like I said, we're still playing with this
- It's OK to jump from a 8k stone to these. I personally go from the Naniwa 8K or Coticule straight to the LM and have gotten good results. If you got the 3, start with the DT, then the LM, then the Welsh-thuringian (or whatever you guys call it)"

What do you guyd think?

Originally Posted by Leon

2 things are strange here.

1) Why would he jump from 6k to these stones? Couldn't he go a little higher before testing these?

2) He doesn't mention any use of slurry.

Unlike that thread that seems to tell people to avoid buying the stones, I, personally, am convinced of my LM, if used in the conditions I mentioned above:

"- Use more laps with slurry than without
- You can use oil or glycerin instead of plain water. Some might say that this enhance the sharpness and smoothness of the edge. Personally I haven't found a significant difference, but like I said, we're still playing with this
- It's OK to jump from a 8k stone to these. I personally go from the Naniwa 8K or Coticule straight to the LM and have gotten good results. If you got the 3, start with the DT, then the LM, then the Welsh-thuringian (or whatever you guys call it)"

What do you guyd think?

Makes no sense to me at all!! going from 6k to the LM ???? not even the DT.Personally i dont have this 3 stone set but i do have a yellow lake in the 9 k range and use it everytime before any of my finisher, its a progression from coarse to fine i really cant explain sham thinking on this and the funny thing is he the only one with a bad review on these hones.

Originally Posted by Martin103

the funny thing is he the only one with a bad review on these hones.

My thoughts exactly. I'm not saying these are magical stones or anything, but IMHO, they're good finishers, at least, the LM, the only stone I have, is a keeper, that's for sure.

I actually have tried mine with the one stone method following bevel setting and it is working pretty nicely so far. Only have done a dozen razors though.

I am using a generic slurry stone from Japan Woodworker and starting with very heavy slurry. 40 circles with pressure both ways followed by 10 or so X strokes. Then a medium slurry and 40 circles with pressure, 40 with no pressure and then 5-10 no pressure X strokes. Then 10-15 no pressure X strokes with a light slurry and 10 no pressure X strokes with water. Strop and test. This is a fun stone. Let me know if any of you guys try this and how it works for you.

Have fun.

I am baffled by that post also. I only have the LM stone which many have observed to reach about 15K level, so it could be considered a polishing stone, no? At least that is how I am using it.
So polishing a 6K edge with a 15K stone (no slurry either) and you are surprised that the shave is poor? I don't get it. I personally love my LM and have used it on about a dozen razors so far with great results.

Originally Posted by Lynn

I actually have tried mine with the one stone method following bevel setting and it is working pretty nicely so far. Only have done a dozen razors though.

I am using a generic slurry stone from Japan Woodworker and starting with very heavy slurry. 40 circles with pressure both ways followed by 10 or so X strokes. Then a medium slurry and 40 circles with pressure, 40 with no pressure and then 5-10 no pressure X strokes. Then 10-15 no pressure X strokes with a light slurry and 10 no pressure X strokes with water. Strop and test. This is a fun stone. Let me know if any of you guys try this and how it works for you.

Have fun.

Hey Lynn. I glad to see your trying them out. Did you do this for the DT and the LM or just the LM?

Originally Posted by Leon

2 things are strange here.

1) Why would he jump from 6k to these stones? Couldn't he go a little higher before testing these?

2) He doesn't mention any use of slurry.

Unlike that thread that seems to tell people to avoid buying the stones, I, personally, am convinced of my LM, if used in the conditions I mentioned above:

"- Use more laps with slurry than without
- You can use oil or glycerin instead of plain water. Some might say that this enhance the sharpness and smoothness of the edge. Personally I haven't found a significant difference, but like I said, we're still playing with this
- It's OK to jump from a 8k stone to these. I personally go from the Naniwa 8K or Coticule straight to the LM and have gotten good results. If you got the 3, start with the DT, then the LM, then the Welsh-thuringian (or whatever you guys call it)"

What do you guyd think?

As it stands I have found it fine to go straight from a King 6000 to a Chinese 12K (PHIG) with no slurry so it should be fine to follow his method, although I can't comment on his findings. However I've had a DT from Inigo Jones for some time and his experiences don't tally with mine but then not all stones are created equal.

I have been tempted to buy either a LM or the unknown one but I'm resisting!

A big +1 to Lynn's "One Stone Method" from above.
I took one straight from my "just bought" pile, a non sharp 1/4 hollow Sheffield and set a bevel with an 850 diamond plate then straight to Lynn's method, followed it as close as possible (325 diamond instead of generic slurry stone for the heavy and medium slurry and supplied slurry stone for the light) then did 20 laps CrOx and 40 linen / 70 leather. It was popping arm hairs at the tips. Shave tested fine!!!

I'm actually very surprised this worked this well without any intermediate stones, next time I will try this after a Norton 4k