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Thread: A couple of questions for the brush makers

  1. #21
    Senior Member RADisorder's Avatar
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    Finished it. 30mm Pur Tech synthetic knot, compared to a 21mm Mühle synthetic:
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  2. #22
    Senior Member irish19's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RADisorder View Post
    The piece did come off eventually. I'd always been wearing goggles and a respirator, but I was wearing a new harbor freight deluxe face screen when it came off. It was running it's lowest around 700rpm, so it didn't seem to fly off too fast. It was a jolt to feel it happen through the gouge though.
    Attachment 154658




    I will probably make a dummy block (I do have a small faceplate to attach it to). Not sure if I will use this piece, but I read that I can use the cedar without stabilizing it. Would probably soak it in linseed oil and use spar varnish and/or finish it with CA. Have about enough for two more brushes left if I want a different shape.
    Attachment 154659

    I was pretty happy to see slivers of wood this time, since I sharpened the chisel. My technique isn't that great yet though, because the hone has facets in it. Not sure if I'll continue with my current setup for awhile or get one of those worksharp type sharpening tools.
    I've got one of the Worksharp tools and it works pretty well. I also keep a slip stone at the lathe for touch-ups while I'm turning. If the tool is chattering even after you touch it up, that's when it's time to go to the wheel or worksharp. If you're using a regular grinding wheel and not a low speed be careful. It's easy to heat the tool hot enough to damage the temper. If it starts to change color, stop grinding immediately. Better yet, only make very shallow passes.

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    RADisorder (03-07-2014)

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