Thread: First brush

Just protect that knot when you start going mad scientist on the handle. I use green painters tape when I've had to do work like this in the past. It comes off the badger hair without hurting it at all.

Use it, buy it if you don't have it, don't use whatever you got laying around. I know you wouldn't, but I can just see you wanting to fix the problem ASAP.... Cause that's what I'd be like too.

Originally Posted by prodigy

The guy that teaches the bowl turning class I'm taking at woodcraft tomorrow is probably the most knowledgeable Turner I've ever seen. Granted I don't know that many, but he knows his stuff. Maybe I'll bring it with me to ask what he'd do. I'm thinking I can wrap the knot up pretty tight in plastic or paper then tape it. Possibly the knot will fit through the center of the chuck, allowing me access to both sides? In the future I think I'll save ca glue for pens. I'm going to try osmo polyx #3011 and see how that does.

Great idea. He's probably got a lot of experience which means he's probably run into crap situations like this in the past. I bet he's even got the fancy adaptor kit to hold it and might be willing to let you borrow it.

Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY

Now back to my thought....

If worse comes to worse, you trim that handle down, get that knot outta there and start at square 1. Obviously a last resort, but that knot is worth far more than a buckeye burl handle. Just sayin.....

I was flashing back to your boar hair knot removal thread thinking the same thing. but ..ohhhhh the pucker factor working around that shavemac !

Originally Posted by AKmik

I was flashing back to your boar hair knot removal thread thinking the same thing. but ..ohhhhh the pucker factor working around that shavemac !

Wood is far easier than plastic. You can split the handle in half along the grain. That being said, I've never done it on stabilized wood.

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Well I'm going to start slow, and safe. I'm going to try my applying another coat of CA attempt, starting with just the bottom. I found that the plastic knot protectors that come on the Chinese knots works great. Here she is all suited up for battle!

Ok. I used I nitrile glove to spread out the ca glue on the bottom only. I think this might just do the trick! Getting the rest of the handle may prove to be a little more difficult though.

Ok all done with this approach. My main concern was water penetrating the cracks. Now that I've hand applied a coat I feel confident that all of the cracks are at least sealed up. The crazing can still be seen in some spots, but for the most part it blended out nicely. I'm not going to sand it. I'm just going to use a mildly abrasive paste to Polish on the buffer, then buff it to a shine. I guess eventually I'll make a brush that doesn't have issues! The Lignum one I made for Movember was actually really nice though, and go figure I used danish oil.

That's a beautiful handle.

There's a saying in the food business that might have some relevance here. Any time you see a wedding cake with extra flowers or other decoration in seemingly random places, you know the baker tore the fondant covering. Yeah he or she messed it up on the first go, but sometimes the bandaids make it even prettier, and it still tastes the same. The final product is what matters, not the unexpected extra steps you ended up taking to get there.

Ok that method just didn't make me happy. I stripped off all the ca and am starting the process of a Danish oil finish. So far, so good. I just can't let that shavemac knot sit in anything less than perfection.

Good call my friend. Be patient with it too. Looking forward to seeing it done.