Thread: My stabilizing set up

I have read all the threads here and several on knife forums on building pressure pots and I have some questions.

I have come into some redwood burl slabs that I want to cut for scale making. I plan on cutting into 1 X 6 X 3/8 in slabs before stabilizing in Cactus Juice. Then cutting to finish width once stabilized.

I am planning on a HF hand vacuum pump with a 10 in. plastic canister with a locking lid and silicone gasket.

1. Warpage, If I were to cut into 1/8 in slabs can I expect warpage? I am concerned about penetration with a hand pump.
2. Sealing brass fittings, will 2mm foam gaskets, brass washers and silicone seal the fittings?
3. Do I need to bake Cactus Juice, in an oven to cure, if so how long? I was planning on a toaster oven.
4. Will Redwood need to be backed or will stabilizing make them strong enough for scale making?

Thanks

Originally Posted by Euclid440

I have read all the threads here and several on knife forums on building pressure pots and I have some questions.

I have come into some redwood burl slabs that I want to cut for scale making. I plan on cutting into 1 X 6 X 3/8 in slabs before stabilizing in Cactus Juice. Then cutting to finish width once stabilized.

I am planning on a HF hand vacuum pump with a 10 in. plastic canister with a locking lid and silicone gasket.

1. Warpage, If I were to cut into 1/8 in slabs can I expect warpage? I am concerned about penetration with a hand pump.
2. Sealing brass fittings, will 2mm foam gaskets, brass washers and silicone seal the fittings?
3. Do I need to bake Cactus Juice, in an oven to cure, if so how long? I was planning on a toaster oven.
4. Will Redwood need to be backed or will stabilizing make them strong enough for scale making?

Thanks

The wood has to dry to begin with,A hand pump will be fine,you can only pull so much Vac depending on your altitude.
I use the regular kitchin oven, two hrs at 200 degs

What Pixel said. Only difference is I use a toaster oven. The temp control isn't accurate, so you need an oven thermometer. Not sure about the strength of stabilized redwood. Why don't you take one for the team, and find out? I don't THINK warpage will be a problem. If it turns out it is, you can add a flat piece of steel to the outside of the foil wrap. Try without it first. Good luck.

Yea, it’s the burl that concerns me about flexing strength if I go less than a 1/8 inch in thickness, but we’ll see. It is pretty dry so that should not be a problem.

I picked up the vacuum pump and canister this weekend and will put it togeather. I will order the Cactus Juice tonight and will be on the lookout for a Toaster Oven.

I will post the results.

I see HF has a moisture meter for 13 buck and see them on Amazon for 20-30 dollar and other for over a hundred.
Anyone tried the HF meter?

Thanks for the info.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Yea, it’s the burl that concerns me about flexing strength if I go less than a 1/8 inch in thickness, but we’ll see. It is pretty dry so that should not be a problem.

I picked up the vacuum pump and canister this weekend and will put it togeather. I will order the Cactus Juice tonight and will be on the lookout for a Toaster Oven.

I will post the results.

I see HF has a moisture meter for 13 buck and see them on Amazon for 20-30 dollar and other for over a hundred.
Anyone tried the HF meter?

Thanks for the info.

Euclid440, Did you ever stabilize the Redwood you talked about in this thread? I have found it to be a problem wood for stabilizing. I can't get full penetration on it and I'm pulling -27Hg for an hour and a half. I've also read on other forums that redwood can be a problem. It has a ton of pitch to deal with, which prevents deep penetration.

No never did, funny came across the box with all the gear a few days ago, still getting organized after a move about a year ago, and picked up another slab of burl recently, old clocks. I have about 5 of them now, about 1.5 in thick.

I will have to get the system together and see what happens, going to use the cactus juice.

I've been using the Stick Fast resin, and having lots of fun. Learning a few things along the way too. One thing I have found, that's very key, is leaving it sit in the resin after bringing the chamber back to regular atmospheric pressure. The wood needs time to absorb the resin. I've only done 2-3 brush blanks and 2 scale blanks so far, but I'm definitely having fun doing it.

Originally Posted by HARRYWALLY

Euclid440, Did you ever stabilize the Redwood you talked about in this thread? I have found it to be a problem wood for stabilizing. I can't get full penetration on it and I'm pulling -27Hg for an hour and a half. I've also read on other forums that redwood can be a problem. It has a ton of pitch to deal with, which prevents deep penetration.

Is because of the tannic acid in redwood.Other woods you should not try to stabilize are high oil content wood such as coco or lignum.
The process pulls all the oil out and you end up with a gummy mess,JME

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Is because of the tannic acid in redwood.Other woods you should not try to stabilize are high oil content wood such as coco or lignum.
The process pulls all the oil out and you end up with a gummy mess,JME

Yup, makes sense. I just figured Redwood, being a softwood, would stabilize well. Wrong. Here's some photos with weight gain after stabilizing. I did both Redwood burl and Buckeye burl in the same batch.

Redwood burl


Buckeye burl


Notice the difference in weight, and how the Buckeye took t resin far bettter than the redwood.

Neat thread and very creative pot builds.
That buckeye turned out pretty nice Andrew. Congrats on getting your set up goin!