A primer on using super glue as a finish on wood scales
https://sharprazorpalace.com/worksho...tml#post719606
I am going to take some time and give you some hints and tricks to doing these finishes...
Basically you goop it on, let it dry, and sand
no really that is it... 
OK here are a few hints...
Sand your wood to 220 don't go finer it wont suck up the glue, and yes all good finishes go into the wood not just on it...
Acetone is your friend
yes if you wipe the scale before your first coat of CA life will be good... I could try and tell you what woods need it (oily) and which don't (dry) , a quick wipe will not hurt any wood that I have used YET..There are basically 3 types of CA glue, Thin, Medium, and Thick I have never tried the Thick...
Use either the thin or the med or as I'll explain next both types...
When you finish using a regular wood finish, most start with what is often referred to as a "wash coat" or a thinned version of the finish... This gets deep into the wood fiber and protects (waterproofs) it much better then just a top finish...It also sets up a bonding surface for the next coats...
Thin CA is your wash coat, always start with it, put 2-3 coats of thin CA on then switch to a medium if you want, or continue with thin...
Every 1 coat of med is about the same as 3 coats of thin, as a rough guide..
Key, 3 coats of Thin or 1 coat of Med = 1 Application
With most finishes application is the key to a good smooth finish, CA is the reverse, application means nothing, it will be messy
sanding makes the finish...DON"T FORGET THE INSIDE OF THE SCALES
I actually do them first with 2 wash coats then 2 aplications..Application:
After the "wash coat" dries use 320 sandpaper and rough the surface, now 1 application of CA, then let dry, rough sand and continue...I use cut off Nitrile glove finger tips to apply CA, you can also use cello tape around a finger but I have never got that to work as well..
Rough sand 320 before the next application of CA, you will start to notice that they are sanded smooth spots and shiny spots in the finish this becomes very important later..
Continue with your applications, I don't even think about sanding for effect until 3 applications but usually 4-5 is the right spot... (That is 9-15 coats of Thin AT LEAST)
Remember that if you are using thin CA, it has to dry between each thin coat or you will fog it...
Sanding:
Here is where the finish comes into its own...
I use 320 still and get the finish fairly even, the less shiny spots, the more even the finish,, EVERY SINGLE SHINY SPOT MUST BE GONE eventually...
I use a fresh clean piece of sandpaper each time I do this first cut-down because it can tell you very fast if you burned through the finish, you will see a wood color streak on it
If you burn through do 2 more applications and try again...
As you sand for effect, watch the shiny spots get smaller and smaller, DON"T get lazy here, as they get smaller, switch to 600 and continue...
then 800 then 1500 (the grits can vary) you can wet sand if you want at about the 800 level...
Check the finish against a bright light for shiny spots, and continue lightly sanding until there are none... Yes really none, if you leave any you will be sad after the next step...
Now once you are SURE the finish is even and clear, then comes the magic...
You should have a pretty smooth glassy finish now but it needs to be "Cut" a really good inexpensive cutting compound is Turtle Wax Liquid Rubbing Compound, apply and buff and then do it again, and you will find this liquid glass finish staring back at you...
If you left any shiny spots they will now be DENTS in your finish
go back to about 1000 grit or so, and sand them out and re-"cut" the finish with the compound...A good coat of Johnson's paste wax (or the like) or Ren-Wax makes the whole thing beautiful..
I am working a set right now I will try for some pics later...
This is a general format, there are many variations to this that work...
