Thread: Indoor Rock Climbing/Bouldering

I'm noticing soreness mainly in my forearms, near the wrists. I do a gym workout twice a week, quite intense, so I'm not new to exercise; and I always like and promote functional exercise, but this is REALLY functional. I've seen some hanging boards you can buy for building up finger strength, but they're quite expensive. My son and I reckon we could make one with a Dremmel and some planks of wood crewed and glued together...

Originally Posted by carlmaloschneider

I'm noticing soreness mainly in my forearms, near the wrists. I do a gym workout twice a week, quite intense, so I'm not new to exercise; and I always like and promote functional exercise, but this is REALLY functional. I've seen some hanging boards you can buy for building up finger strength, but they're quite expensive. My son and I reckon we could make one with a Dremmel and some planks of wood crewed and glued together...

It's interesting. When everyone first starts climbing it's the forearms that are sore and that are the limiting factor.

However those get stronger in a hurry and then you move on to more difficult routes. That's when the small finger muscles become the limiting factor.

When you decide to end your climbing for the day/night it's because your fingers are shot and not your forearms.

I've found that the best exercise for climbing is ...climbing

When you start doing more overhang climbing that's when your core strength (abs) becomes important as well. You need to use those larger muscles to temporary hold or press your body tight against the wall for the few seconds it takes to go from one hand hold to the next.

Once you unload your weight and make the move then you relax your abs again and the weight is transferred back to your hands/arms.

It's a fun process as it's almost like learning to walk again since it's such a different environment (moving vertically) and the way gravity influences what you do isn't intuitive initially.

That's really interesting about the stomach muscles etc. I think this will give me the motivation to lose more fat...

Do you guys wear socks with your climbing shoes?

Originally Posted by carlmaloschneider

Do you guys wear socks with your climbing shoes?

No. Maybe one person out of several hundred. The shoes are designed to not be worn with out socks.

You will not have the same degree of control if socks are worn.

Oh, I was thinking that when I read some reviews saying a particular shoe dyed the feet :-)

So, this is going to sound silly, but shoes without socks breed smell. Generally, I throw my skate shoes that I wear as casual shoes in the washing machine (I'm an old ex surfie, not an old wanna be) I'm guessing that wouldn't be a good idea with climbing shoes. Do you just live with the smell or what? I'm thinking herb bag thingies placed in the shoes or something...I'm not obsessed about it but I don't want to stink.

Thanks very much for your input, gcbryan, it's much appreciated. I know nothing of this; abseiling and caving in the army with army boots on is the closest I've got (and last weekend in Dunlop Volley tennis shoes!).

Carl

I love rappelling (abseiling). That's almost as much fun for me when climbing outside as the climb itself.

Yes, shoes stink. Throwing them in the washer is not a good idea. Eventually they do really stink but I usually wear them out about that time as well. I go though a pair every 6 months or so.

The best that you can do is to air them out when you aren't climbing (don't keep them sealed in your gym bag). You could also probably use some powder in your shoes or some anti-fungal stuff but just airing them out is usually enough.

They will smell more than your other shoes after a while however. I think if you bought some anti-fungal product and used it in your shoes from the beginning it would definitely help.

While I'm at it I'll tell you the big rip-off in climbing gear. Climbing shoes are expensive and when they are worn out 95% of the shoe is fine! The toes are what wear out. It's not the leather, it's the "rand", the rubber surface from the bottom that extends on up onto the toe.

You can get them resoled (not at a regular shoe repair place however) but it costs about 50% of the price of a new pair of shoes and there are no guarantees on how long it will last. Sometimes it's worth it and often it's not.

I'm sure the climbing shoe manufacturers could easily beef-up this area or sell a repair kit to consumers but it's not in their best interests (apparently) to do so. My climbing shoes are about $120 so replacing them every 6 months (it varies) is not an inconsequential expense considering that I'm already paying $60/month for the climbing gym membership.

Some people are able to wear shoes that may be as cheap as $60 but I haven't found any yet that fit me well enough. It's a very individual thing and nothing will make your life worse than a bad pair of climbing shoes.

I hope this helps.

Yeah, helps a lot. I get the idea that one needs to feel the surface, plus have a grippy sole, plus have strength. I guess it's all a trade off of those attributes?

I did a lot of abseiling in the army, that was easier, after all you're just falling. I loved what we called an 'angel; dive' pulling a heap of rope through your figure eight carabiner and diving off head first; free falling until the slack caught. The best (and worst) time i did that was in a cave at night. We had a ring of candles in different coloured glass candle holders on the ground. But they were around a natural mound caused by debris falling in; so they gave a false idea of the height. I almost smacked my face in to the ground that time. Trying to run down walls head first was fun too. That's all memories now, though...

So, I'm too lazy to read all of this, but i skimmed and got the idea. I climb in a gym 4 days a week and train on my lunch another 3-4 days a week, its good to see other climbers on here.

Dont think that just because you're 50 you cant climb hard, there are climbers who have started late in life and climb far harder than most climbers. Jackie Godfrie still climbs v12 and he is in his 50's, fred nichole is in his mid 40's and still boulders as hard as anyone on the planet.

as far as those shoes are concerned, I have owned almost every decent shoe on the market right now and I think La Sportiva makes the best all around shoes right now, so I would suggest looking into their line of shoes, the cobra is a nice all around shoe that is comfortable.

Soreness in your forearms is something you get used to, it will always happen as long as you keep progressing.

Keep at it and remember technique will make you stronger than trying to muscle through things.

-justin

Thanks Justin,
I wished I never mentioned my age now...

I'll check out the La Sportiva shoes. Problem is, I live in South Australia, as far as I can tell so far using the 'net, even the biggest outdoor stores seem to have quite a small range of climbing shoes, and I know I need to try them on. I'm going indoor bouldering at a different venue than last time on the W/E and I'll hire some shoes so I get an idea of fit. I'll not get obsessed about gear in this instance.

I don't need top notch gear, I'll pretend I'm climbing in the 80's....
But I still want GOOD gear... I think I'd be prepared to get maybe a 'lesser' shoe and try it on than an arguably 'better' shoe over the 'net.

I'll welcome the muscle soreness. I've been lifting weights very consistently since I was about 16 so I know about muscle soreness! In fact, I think sometimes it's good when you don't work out for a week or so, and then hit the gym again and feel that soreness. It really lets you know what's being targeted.