Thread: Junkyard Dawg II

Once again, diving into the pile. Sometimes, I like to take the worst of the worst. The busted, broken, and hopelessly wrecked things and make something of them. After a slow week at work, I have hammered this thing out.
I think the blade was etched to commemorate John Jay. Quite a man; John Jay - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
I don't know the maker, it looks German, possibly Boker to my eye. I do know Union Cutlery made some John Jay's, but they are much different than this one.
Cannot find much on them, so I suppose John Jay was a cool thing to put upon a razor for a while? Probably was made back when folks studied history more.



The blade was loose in the scales. Someone had pounded on the pivot and had broken the pearl bits.
I cleaned it all up and CA'ed the pearl back together. Then, I adhered them back on the tang with goop and made some little pins with 1/16 rod using a drill motor and a bench grinder. I then oversized the pivot hole and made a bushing of copper tube, CA holds it in. Roughed up some copper spacers and superglued them on.
No more pressure or wear on the pearl!



The bone scales which it came with did not go right with the pearl tang to me. Pearl tangs need pearl, or black IMO.
I began with two halves of broken pearl scales with silver liners from 2 different razors and some busted bakelite scale halves. Rough stuff!



I decided to go with pearl in the middle and black top and bottom. Since the pearl would have to rely on adhesive only, I began with many tiny drill divots and used epoxy. I figured if they survived the rest of this mess, they would be good forever. After a while of pounding, one fell off. I saw then that epoxy sticks great to the metal, not so much to the pearl. Since CA sticks to pearl very well, I left the layer of epoxy on the liners and CA'ed the pearl to it. Seems to have done the trick. All manner of sanding, polishing, filing, grinding, peening and they are still stuck tight.



I then sized and cut my bakelite pieces somewhat close and adhered them to the liners with 'Goop' using more divots to hold the adhesive. Man, the Goop held those pieces awesomely while I beat, filed, and sanded, and polished on them off and on for a few days! I then used pre-peened pins countersunk a bit to pin the black in the middle and reinforced collars to the liners at each end with a black plastic wedge.



Big pile of work, not perfect, but turned out pretty good.
At least it is something different!

I will add some pics in another post as I am out here. Thanks for looking!

More pics;



And here it is with it's brother, Junkyard Dawg One (Of pearl, ivory, and bakelite), which I cobbed together a while back.

Nice! You need a logo Tom...or maybe tang stamp???

Nice save, and the new scales look great.

Call that boy Scooby Don't!!!!!

Originally Posted by Wolfpack34

Nice! You need a logo Tom...or maybe tang stamp???

Great work!!! In your experience is epoxy the choice for smooth metal to plastic bonds or do you absolutely have to rough up metal no matter what?

Originally Posted by Wolfpack34

Nice! You need a logo Tom...or maybe tang stamp???

Originally Posted by JDM61

Call that boy Scooby Don't!!!!!

Thanks, fellas! I dunno.....Scooby Doo is best, I suppose!

Originally Posted by mainaman

Nice save, and the new scales look great.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by JDM61

Great work!!! In your experience is epoxy the choice for smooth metal to plastic bonds or do you absolutely have to rough up metal no matter what?

Thank you. Well, the epoxy sticks to the metal well, just not to the pearl. The CA sticks to the pearl well, metal not so well, and apparently really good to the epoxy. The Goop works on most stuff. No need to mix. Just need to try and test things.
Roughing things up or little divots like I did will give more surface area for adhesives to stick to.

What I am wondering about is trying to stick say acrylic faux tortoise to gold plated or anodized metal. The gold leaf backing was supposedly an old trick that worked with tortoise shell and also musk ox horn to make the natural color (or unnatural in the case of acrylic) really pop. My only question is would a "matte" piece of metal like yellow/gold anodized Ti work or would you need slick, shiny plated metal like stainless or some kind of nickel alloy to get that flash?

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Thanks!


Thank you. Well, the epoxy sticks to the metal well, just not to the pearl. The CA sticks to the pearl well, metal not so well, and apparently really good to the epoxy. The Goop works on most stuff. No need to mix. Just need to try and test things.
Roughing things up or little divots like I did will give more surface area for adhesives to stick to.

Originally Posted by JDM61

What I am wondering about is trying to stick say acrylic faux tortoise to gold plated or anodized metal. The gold leaf backing was supposedly an old trick that worked with tortoise shell and also musk ox horn to make the natural color (or unnatural in the case of acrylic) really pop. My only question is would a "matte" piece of metal like yellow/gold anodized Ti work or would you need slick, shiny plated metal like stainless or some kind of nickel alloy to get that flash?

Well, I am just adhering things with common adhesives. Lots of specialty things out there. Seems you would want something clear and uniform. This may be the ticket? Pickguard Adhesive Sheet | stewmac.com
I suppose some experimentation on some smaller bits would be the best way to find what works best.