Thread: Mineral Oil

I do not usually use oil on my razors, but when I do (e.g. for long term storage), I use food grade white oil (sometimes sold as honing oil). This is a highly refined mineral oil, similar to baby oil, but without the fragrance additives. I have never had a problem with beading, if the steel is clean and dry, and the oil film is not to thick, it should remain uniform.

Originally Posted by Legion

Be careful. Vegetable oils will rot. It is my understanding that it is a bad idea to use them for rust prevention, at least if it is not an emergency. Chefs use them but that is only because they need to eat off the things they are storing.

The same Mineral Oil (USP) we use on razors is also good for cutting
boards. It does not support (feed) bacterial and keeps water out of the wood.
It also does not get rancid.

My favorite cutting board is a simple plank that I soaked in mineral oil
in a warm (210F/99C) oven. If you have one of the expensive end grain
cutting boards do not heat it but do apply mineral oil once a week to
your dried board for the first couple months. The oil keeps water from
messing up the wood and limits the penetration of oil from mayo, olives,
garlic and so on.

Once the board is well saturated a little bit once or twice a year will
be all it needs.

The key in the US is the USP mark.

For what it's worth i have been using oil of cloves on my swords, knives and razors for years. Especially on the pattern welded blades. Leaves a super thin coat without beading, never gums up and i like the smell. Bought a small bottle at the Pharmacy {people use it for toothaches} and it is still going 10 years later.

Well I think to save myself any sort of decision issues, I'm gonna hafta go with a can of kill rust paint... ... In Pink.... No more hassles with regular oiling just run that heavily painted edge over my stubble, chuck the razor back in the cupboard and go.


Mick