Thread: Beekeeping

Or Kenya top bar hive. The nice thing about the top bar hive is it allows the bees to draw their own comb (no foundation forcing them into drawing an unnatural cell size, people made foundation has a larger cell size than what a bee would naturally make, the idea was to make bigger bees that can produce more honey). However, you can also do this with the traditional Langstroth hive which is what I do. The foundation you are going to buy is made from wax produced by the big bee operations. These wax are full of chemicals used to treat the hive; bad stuff. With the top bar hive you do need a starter strip of some sort to get them drawing the comb properly (if you don't have a starter strip as a guide they can draw the comb perpendicular to the bars and you are then screwed, no managing the hive then). If done right and the bars are made to honor 'bee space' (a hugely important thing), the bees will draw beautiful comb that is only attached to bar and not the sides.
Check out this site for more info on the top bar hive:

Bush Bees, foundationless frames, top bar hive, long hives, natural cell size, natural beekeeping
Paul

Originally Posted by gssixgun

We seem to have an abundance of Yellow Jackets & Hornets in our immediate area would this effect me having hives ???
I know there are hives in the general area like within a 5 mile radius, so I would assume they have the same issues as I would...

Nope. Wasps are generally meat eaters, going for insect larvae and caterpillars. They're not above stealing something sweet, like your can of soda, however. But they won't compete with your bees, as they don't usually visit flowers.

It's better to use meat in your yellow jacket traps since it won't attract honeybees.

Best of luck with your hives. I have access to a piece of land about 45 minutes away from me where I have dabbled with bees. First year I made a top bar hive that ended up swarming on me and dying off in the winter. The next year I built 3 ware hives.... that didn't go so well. The hives being so far out (and me working 70+ hours a week at the time) didn't allow me to keep an eye on the hives as well as I should have. I would like to try again in a few years, maybe a backyard hive in town.

Best of luck and keep us updated.

Matt

Originally Posted by 32t

I am not a numbers person and I tend to round up to be on the safe side. I said $138 for bees in an earlier post and iit really was $133.9075 each after tax.

Here are my receipts so far.

#1 Bees. 2- 3lb Carniolian w/queen and 2- 3lb Italian w/queen. $125 each $535.63 after tax

#2 Basically 4 unassembled hives. Long list but 2 large supers 9 5/8" and 2 small 6 5/8" per hive. I am going to need some more but need to start some where. Only 3 tops and bottoms because my friend gave me 1 set.

11% off Sale from Mann Lake. Free shipping.643.94 after tax

535.63 + 643.94 = 1179.57 USD

Don't tell my wife!!!!

Tim

Adding to the list.

#3 Jacket with hood, Pollen patties, sugar, and feeders $216

#4 Paint and brush $30

#5 Nails and Glue $21

Total to date = $1446

Tim, so far that's a lot of jars of honey. Tc

Originally Posted by tcrideshd

Tim, so far that's a lot of jars of honey. Tc

According to the average retail price found here it would be about 212.96 lbs worth!

Unit Honey Prices by Month - Retail | National Honey Board

Originally Posted by 32t

According to the average retail price found here it would be about 212.96 lbs worth!

Unit Honey Prices by Month - Retail | National Honey Board

About 17.75 gallons!

Hey Tim

Are you bringing any honey to Runnels? I would love be to taste some very expensive honey.

Someone told me you shouldn't harvest the first year. Sounds like straight shaving or reloading as far as savings. It could save you but probably won't.....

I have paid for but not even received the bees yet! They are due in 2 weeks.

The honey is 6 months out yet. That is if there are no bears, mites ,etc.

Pancakes for breakfast at a razor meet.... That is a great idea. When I finally get some I will gladly donate the honey!