Thread: 51 MG restoration.

I thought that TD's top speed was like 45MPH... the guy in the video is going much faster then that! Cheating with a modified car so he can try and keep up with the Triumphs, no doubt! LOL!

(yeah, I own a TR6... had to say it! )

When we started taking the TR6 to shows, my wife fell in love with the TFs and TDs. I suspect one may end up in our garage some day.

TF is my favorite. 1st traffic ticket in my neighbor's. Still the smoothest of the line. TC has the definition of the breed locked down solid!
-Richard

Originally Posted by Aldwyn

(yeah, I own a TR6... had to say it! )

I used to service and repair TR5/TR6 models back in the 1970s. In the UK, they used a Lucas/Tecalemit Jackson fuel injection system with shuttle metering. Anything that caused loss of manifold vacuum, such as a burned valve, caused the mixture to go very rich. We were told that USA spec. models had twin carburettors instead, to comply with stricter US emission laws. Just wondering if that was true.
We also restored an MG TD (XPAG engine). Sadly no pictures, all I can remember nearly 50 years on is that it was red.

Originally Posted by welshwizard

I used to service and repair TR5/TR6 models back in the 1970s. In the UK, they used a Lucas/Tecalemit Jackson fuel injection system with shuttle metering. Anything that caused loss of manifold vacuum, such as a burned valve, caused the mixture to go very rich. We were told that USA spec. models had twin carburettors instead, to comply with stricter US emission laws. Just wondering if that was true.
We also restored an MG TD (XPAG engine). Sadly no pictures, all I can remember nearly 50 years on is that it was red.

Absolutely true. And we were jealous of those UK cars with their FI, as when performing properly, gave more HP and better performance. At least on paper. So much so, a company or two created aftermarket fuel injection systems to replace the carbs.

The 1970 - 76 models had dual Zenith Stromburg carbs. PitA to keep them balanced sometimes, so some folks would switch them out with SU carbs. I kept mine.

And speaking of US requirements, the '75 and '76 models had a "smog pump" attached to the engine to suck out any petrol fumes that did not get burned off the first time around, and push them back into the engine. This sucked another 5HP out of the engine, so must folks pulled them off as soon as they drove off the new car lot! The original owner of mine did just that, but kept it in the garage. When I bought the car from him, I put it back on, but only put the belt on it when I take it to shows. It's funny how many seasoned Triumph guys look at my engine, point at the pump, and ask "What is that??"

Here she is in 2009, before her paint job. Now she looks the same color, only shinier.

I have gotten rid of most of my SU and Triumph parts.

Anyone need 1970 vintage Opel mostly Manta parts?

I was able to get the su’s on this girl rebuilt without issues, and while I can’t say they are 100% sync’d, they pull well and give the 2 liters lots of oomph.
If 45 was the stock top speed, I guess I shouldn’t complain she’s a little twitchy at twice that speed these days.
Few more tools arrived this week as the pandemic lightens up the world of commerce a bit.
A 5 gallon gravity feed media blaster and 100 lbs of crushed glass media. Also picked up a cheap new 6” orbital sander. Going to build a pseudo blasting booth/curtain out of the old pool tarp to reuse and contain the bulk of the shot.
Going wth glass as it’ll be less abusive to the thin body panels. I read many warnings about not sand or metal bead blasting these cars, so going with softer media and lower pressure.
Trying to get the yard work and spring cleaning out of the way early so I have lots of summer to take panels off.

Originally Posted by MikeB52

I was able to get the su’s on this girl rebuilt without issues, and while I can’t say they are 100% sync’d, they pull well and give the 2 liters lots of oomph.
If 45 was the stock top speed, I guess I shouldn’t complain she’s a little twitchy at twice that speed these days.
Few more tools arrived this week as the pandemic lightens up the world of commerce a bit.
A 5 gallon gravity feed media blaster and 100 lbs of crushed glass media. Also picked up a cheap new 6” orbital sander. Going to build a pseudo blasting booth/curtain out of the old pool tarp to reuse and contain the bulk of the shot.
Going wth glass as it’ll be less abusive to the thin body panels. I read many warnings about not sand or metal bead blasting these cars, so going with softer media and lower pressure.
Trying to get the yard work and spring cleaning out of the way early so I have lots of summer to take panels off.

Just a few thoughts my friend.

You might want to check with whatever paint supplier you are planning on using for your primer and top coat as to what is recommended for the surface to be prepped and then finished with. Back in the day when the new paints were coming out an Orbital Sander wasn't recommended. A Dual Action was recommended. A couple of paint suppliers wouldn't guarantee their paint's adhesion and performance if the proper unit (and grit) wasn't used. Just a thought.

The reason you need to use softer abrasives and low pressure is that the harder ones will 'Work Harden' the steel and may also deform your panels. The deformation would be mostly on the flat panels as the curved panels already have support from the formation of the curve. Again, just some thoughts.

Originally Posted by MikeB52

If 45 was the stock top speed

1250 TD would have had a top speed of 75-80 mph. Problem was that much of the petrol (gasoline) that was available in Britain in those days was very poor quality/low octane.

'Cuda has the right of it for media blasting. I used to hold the nozzle at an angle as though the media was a knife. That gave a glancing blow and reduced the direct blows to the thin metal. Think of 10 million peening hammers per minute! Practice a bit on scrap sheet panels 'fore going to the real thing. JMHO
-Richard

Originally Posted by cudarunner

Just a few thoughts my friend.

You might want to check with whatever paint supplier you are planning on using for your primer and top coat as to what is recommended for the surface to be prepped and then finished with. Back in the day when the new paints were coming out an Orbital Sander wasn't recommended. A Dual Action was recommended. A couple of paint suppliers wouldn't guarantee their paint's adhesion and performance if the proper unit (and grit) wasn't used. Just a thought.

The reason you need to use softer abrasives and low pressure is that the harder ones will 'Work Harden' the steel and may also deform your panels. The deformation would be mostly on the flat panels as the curved panels already have support from the formation of the curve. Again, just some thoughts.

Appreciate them thoughts gents!
So what are the two actions in dual action?
As per my order the 6” round sander is indeed a dual action, but also orbital, so spinning and eliptical? Are those the two actions?

Sweet price on the blaster, hope it performs well.
The hood pieces will be my test panels and light air and glancing blows will be in order for certain.
Cheers.