Thread: 51 MG restoration.

Got both sides roughly together.
Say roughly cause the pieces will be together and apart a ton before I tighten and seal them.


Trying to ensure the lines and curves all match the original skins is part of the challenge where the time upfront now will mean calm reassembly later. Think of reusing stiff wrapping paper,, I want the seams to align perfectly with the original ‘package’ .
Some things need to be readdressed though.
These original pieces are cross drilled for the windshield bracket and hardware to use. No matter what, I’ll be re-squaring the windshield so need fresh drilling surfaces.


Didn’t have any dowelstock so turned down a maple pen blank for the cause.
Once the wood glue sets up, I can sand everything down and prepare for the epoxy.
Then these can go on the frame.

My new rear wheel hubs, and firewall stiffener ordered Boxing Day from eBay both arrived today as well!
Woo hoo.

Damn Mike! You don't fool around. That's one hell of a project. When you said "restoration" you meant restoration.

Came home to some fully cured, 100% waterproof main assy’s.
The car starts here.

From these critical measures, everything else will connect to, attach from, or butt against.
Have my 19 7/8” gap across the open span, which is 3/4 of an inch closer than the car actually was when torn down. All those little tolerances over 70 years are now eliminated again.
Doors should close tight, and stay closed..an assumption with modern cars sure, but 70 years ago, not always a given..

And these, very good pieces, will be the ones copied to make the firewall framework from scratch.
The ones I intend to leave au natural finish wise, but will seal in epoxy.

Guess this would be the view from the engine looking back at the cockpit.
Can probably make everything from one 2x6..

Originally Posted by MikeB52

And these, very good pieces, will be the ones copied to make the firewall framework from scratch.
The ones I intend to leave au natural finish wise, but will seal in epoxy.
Guess this would be the view from the engine looking back at the cockpit.
Can probably make everything from one 2x6..

Have you made a decision on what wood this 2x6 will be? I'm presuming that it will be a clear coat epoxy so the look of the wood would be important. Just wondering--

Man I just love to come by and see what's new with this restoration. It's like watching The Truman Show. By the way, and speaking of wood, I like the flooring in the pics.

Great work Mike. I feel like I’m just a hack, I tore my motorcycle down to the frame and have redone almost everything, but it so small compared to your rebuild, heck my paint booth didn’t need to be more than 3x3. I start assembly soon, I’ll race ya!

As much as I love that MG I think I'm putting my money on TC...no offense Mike.

3x3? You could paint your ride on my work table.. I’ve built it so it’ll double as a downdraft spray booth for the pieces, when the time comes. I’d be eating your dust without doubt tc, but the sound would be music to my ears..
Thanks for the compliments on the faux floor as well Paul. Laid it myself. Ceramic that looks like wood. Was worried it’s be too dark in the kitchen but the wife likes em too.
And as far as the car wood Roy, nope no decisions made beyond hardwood. Ipe, from the south is pretty perfect marine wood, and I have an affection for cherry. One consideration is I may want to use the same wood on the exposed frame as I use to make the dashboard, and for that I want figure, but for the beams strength..
Colour scheme is black top and interior on forest green body.
Leaning to the lighter golden or reddish hues to pop against the darker everything else..
This ash looks better epoxied than I would have thought it would tbh, so were it available here, I might use it.
Opinions and suggestions for the face wood, such as teak and yew have merit, although of the two I’d go yew I think for the lighter shades.
Maybe a maple burl dash will blend with yew rails..

I always loved British Leyland's British Racing Green.