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Thread: Target Shooting
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04-12-2012, 03:02 AM #81
Awesome shooting 32 what bow were you shooting before the longbow?
Ness what are you shooting?
I've got a longbow on order with some nice cedar arrows coming in too. I haven't shot a longbow in a few years but hope I'll be as good as I used to!Shaving_story on Instagram
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04-12-2012, 03:17 AM #82
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04-12-2012, 03:56 AM #83
Thanks, My "Target" bow is a '07 Bowtech Constitution. Long stabilizers, [Custom by me!] 1/4" grind True spot scope, etc. etc. It is set up for 20 yds indoor and that is it. It does one thing and does it well. Very specialized. I have two more sets of limbs etc. for it so I can set it up many ways. I have hunted with it but I haven't got anything!
My present hunting bow is a PSE Evo. It works great but I am thinking about selling it because I hate putting it away for 10 months of the year. My main issue with it is that I want to play with my toys. It has 63-72 lb limbs that make it to much to shoot 150 arrows at a time. I could buy lighter limbs... But that would be like buying a Mustang with a 4 cylinder engine.
I have various other bows, compound and recurves. One of the neat things about archery is that you can do with and make it what you want. My target teammates that i placed second with in the winter leagues think it is cool that I am trying another style for spring. One is going to shoot with his Olympic style recurve.
Good luck with your longbow. They take a lot of practice and time to master. Remember the whole point of it is to have FUN with whatever you choose.
Tim
P.S. One thing with razors is that they don't take up so much room. they don't bother my wife quit so much!
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The Following User Says Thank You to 32t For This Useful Post:
Fliping (12-05-2013)
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04-13-2012, 12:11 AM #84
I shoot an English longbow made by Gerald Welsh of Alaska AKA Welshman Longbow Company.It is 57 lb at 29" and a sweet shooting bow and has lots of eye appeal too. I also have a Blue Ridge reflex/deflex laminated longbow that also shoots smooth,its 49 lb at 29".I use port orford cedar arrows with field points. Just 2 Longbows for me, now straight razors are another story HeHeHe
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04-13-2012, 05:47 AM #85
WOW what are limbs?, I have a 65lb pull Bear hunting bow from when that actually ment something, (got me to buy it) and now I dont beven recoginse some ot these thing they are using now.,does anyone remember or know how to get the string mearsurementfrom a bow? I tried to get it restrung from the only place around here said it was a 28" but he didnt have one and said noone uses them any more,so I gotta get one from the net.Is there a way to tell what string I need?
THX
GLast edited by Grizzley1; 04-13-2012 at 06:32 AM.
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04-13-2012, 02:08 PM #86
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04-13-2012, 06:24 PM #87
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Thanked: 2Interesting thread...
Do any of you folks shoot at Camp Perry in the summer? I volunteer as a Block Officer for Pistol Phase, although I think this year they're going to move me up to Tower-Talker.
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04-13-2012, 11:13 PM #88
The riser is the heavier piece in the middle that has the grip for your hand. The limbs are then on the top and bottom. By changing limbs on my Constitution I can change the draw weight from 35 to 70 pounds and anything in between. The longbow is a different story!
As far as your string goes for your Bear it shouldn't be a big issue. Might cost more than the bow is worth... That is to someone else. If you have a history with it I would certainly get a new string. String makers have charts of what is needed for most anything. PM me if you are interested and I will try to point you in the right direction.
Tim
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04-13-2012, 11:20 PM #89
I have never shot any kind of firearm competitively. This last week I had a talk with a friend that shoots Olympic style recurve very well. He is trying to sucker a guy that thinks he is a good pistol shot into a competition against him with his bow for $100. He will win with the bow!
Tim
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04-14-2012, 02:33 AM #90
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Thanked: 1371Tim, I haven't built many arrows for a longbow, but... Especially if you're only shooting spots, it might be worth trying much heavier points (like 135 or better) with a short shaft that puts you on the light side of the spine chart for that weight and length.
Basically, get as much weight forward of center as possible while still keeping a dynamic spine on the soft side.
If you're having a hard time finding shafts to fit that, the first place I'd deviate is on the length, going for a slightly longer shaft that spines ok.
Of course... that depends on how much weight you're pulling too, I suppose.Last edited by HNSB; 04-14-2012 at 02:39 AM.
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