Thread: Alls Well that Anv-ells?

I'm with Bruno on this one, Not sure what you mean by inletting. As for the rubber band idea, when I worked in the machine shop, we had a lathe for truing automotive brake rotors, and there was basically a huge rubberband that was wrapped around the rotor to eliminate vibration while cutting. I thought the same principles might apply.

Originally Posted by Bruno

What do you mean by inletting the base?

There is a calculation involved for height of the anvil face off the ground that blacksmiths would consider standard, but it's really individualizing the height of the anvil for the most common user. This will determine the length of the wooden base, plus the height of the metal anvil less one half inch.

I use landscaping lag screws to pull all four pieces of wood together, set the anvil on top and draw an outline. I cut down into (rabbit, mortise, rout?) the top of the base about a half inch so the anvil sets down into the block. Once in place, I'll use some quarter round wood moulding to pinch the base of the anvil tight. I've also used plain wood glue. Some of these have been dropped off a trailer or truck bed and not separated. Some come right apart to move, but have not rocked or rolled during use. It's simple, very simple and the wood reduces the anvil's tone instead of ringing through an iron base to concrete. YMMV.

I was planning on basing my anvil height by determining where my most comfortable arm position is for striking with my favorite hammer, and measuring the distance from the hammer face to the floor. Then subtract the height of the anvil itself, plus the height of the average piece of metal I think I might be forging. I know body mechanics are important to watch if you want to prevent repetitive stress injuries, so it makes sense to me to give a lot of thought to how and where my blows are going to be directed and landing.
Does anybody have opinions on the aspects of materials used in the base?
Wood blocks standing on end? Wood blocks stacked lengthwise? steel base?
Mike, I like the idea of wood softening the ring on a concrete floor, but will it be necessary if a steel base is on a dirt floor? or, will dirt be a problem for an anvil stand?

I have also heard putting a piece of rubber mat under the anvil takes a lot of noise out it. Wood or metal stand I don't remember but your could hear the difference in the vid. I am still kind of looking for the perfect tree stump for mine but I'll probably make a metal base. I have a couple more months of hot weather but then I will build the forge and start using mine. I can hardly wait.

Originally Posted by Magpie

I was planning on basing my anvil height by determining where my most comfortable arm position is for striking with my favorite hammer, ...

I like the idea of wood softening the ring on a concrete floor, but will it be necessary if a steel base is on a dirt floor? or, will dirt be a problem for an anvil stand?

The traditional measure is standing straight, arm straight down at your side, and your knuckles of a closed fist just touching the surface of the anvil (anvil plus base). Some folks find this too short or too long, you may have to adjust. Of course, then this anvil is set for your best height which may be a problem with visitors etc.

Steel base on a dirt floor should be less noisy. It is also the most traditional. Dirt does not burn or spall like wood or concrete. It also hides all the dirt you create during smithing. I am getting old enough that the ring (my ears) are annoying. Remember to wear hearing protection and start today.

Originally Posted by Mike Blue

Of course, then this anvil is set for your best height which may be a problem with visitors etc.

I am getting old enough that the ring (my ears) are annoying. Remember to wear hearing protection and start today.

I first noticed my hearing loss back when I was an audio engineer. Loud music, loud bikes, and wind whipping past my ears all took a toll. Now days I ALWAYS wear protection. Even if its just those little squeezy foam things. I am also huge on respirators, having seen too many of the people I know/have known struggle with late stage lung diseases.
I am back home now, and can get started setting things up. As for my anvil being too low for "guests" Its simple enough to put a plank or two under the stand for them. Although I suppose I could also just wear platform shoes when I work. Though I have always strongly believed anybody over 5'8 should just have their toe nails trimmed at the knees.

Just as a follow up...

The anvil is currently sitting in a shop in town, upside down, with WD40 soaking the hardy hole. The cutoff tool was stuck in it when I bought it, and I figured "no big deal, a little tap from below, and it will pop right out"
Boy, was I ever wrong! I tried heat, I tried cold, I tried hot and cold, I ruined a perfectly good punch by hitting it with a 3lb mini sledge. Brought it to the local shop where they put it in a hydraulic press trying to remove it. No Go! 20 ton press and nothing budged!
So, a soak over the weekend, and then another attempt at pressing. If that fails, I dont know what else to do other than hoping the shaft of the cutting tool is soft enough to be drilled out.

I doubt that the WD40 is going to work because it sounds like the hardy was tapered and then hammered in a slightly too small hardii hole. In other words, it's not crud holding it in, it is compression. Or at least, that is what my crystal ball tells me. And it could be wrong.

Once you start drilling, you create a way to relieve the inner pressure and the chance are it will come loose if you use a big enough drill so that only a thin bit of material remains.

I would lean toward more heat to loosen the tool. Something like a rosebud heating the tool from the back side till it is red hot.

Back when I worked on oil field equipment we would get some things that had been rusted together intentionally. Heat and pressure is usually what got them to separate. Some of the old timers would use battery acid (sulphuric ) as a form of loc-tite. It would rust threads and parts together preventing slippage. I still get mad when I think about, what a pain in the rear.

Charlie

I'd be concerned with possibly splitting off the heel of the anvil or overheating the face and causing it to soften. Why not post pictures and the question of separating them on IFI? I'm sure someone there has run into this. I do have a Brazeal style cutoff hardy which is tapered. I've always been able to remove it with a tap to the side of the cutoff to knock it loose.