Thread: Hot & Shiny WIP

Finally scavenged about 90% of the parts for my mini forge
& since it was available I decided on a full stainless option would be nice
So started building today
body is 6"x15" long sched 10 pipe cut the hole for the burner also ( forgot to take a pick)

6mm end plates with 80mm opening & 100mm wide back door flap cut & drilled

Pieces of 6mm plate for a cover door with 1" slot (was 2 shims cut) and my lugs so the ends can be bolted to the body



cut drilled & tapped burner body, guide end, stab in & throttle slide pieces
still have to slot the throttle air vents
burner body is 3/4" sched 40 pipe
tip & throttle slide is 1" shed 40 pipe
stab guide pipe is 1&1/4" shed 5 pipe


Other bits and pieces in my office for most of it ready to go (no pics) including valves & bits for an idle loop & gas supply mig tip jet set up,
also from a long time work associate a piece of Superwool 607 blanket 1" thick 2'x4' and some refractory cement getting saved from a shut down next week

The best bit is the total cost to date is not $300 not $100 but ZIP ,nada yes that's it $0 only my time which means more coin for my grinder build to come.

Now My question for those who have already tread this path is:
do you think the 3/4" pipe burner is going to be too big for my size forge at a 3"x15" volume forge or should I drop down to a 1/2" body burner ??
hope you enjoy
regards Dion

I know nothing about this, Dion, but that is nice work. Cannot wait to see it done!

What do you expect the finish ID of your forge to be? I assume you are lining it. Also what size orifice are you going to use on the burner? I just built a 3/4 burner with a .030 mg tip accelerator and I can hardly believe how powerful it is. I have not really experimented much with it turned down or with an .023 tip.

EDIT; Just re read your post and saw that you did state the finished size as 3" x 15". I have no experience with a 1/2" burner, but I suspect it would be more appropriate for your mini forge.

I want to see the finished product.

I used a piece of 1-1/4" pipe for my nozzle. 1" seems like it would be too small to me on a 3/4" burner.

Originally Posted by bluesman7

What do you expect the finish ID of your forge to be? I assume you are lining it. Also what size orifice are you going to use on the burner? I just built a 3/4 burner with a .030 mg tip accelerator and I can hardly believe how powerful it is. I have not really experimented much with it turned down or with an .023 tip.

EDIT; Just re read your post and saw that you did state the finished size as 3" x 15". I have no experience with a 1/2" burner, but I suspect it would be more appropriate for your mini forge.

thanks mate, I intend to make it so I can change tips out so may start with the smaller & try them before I mount it to the forge anyway.

also do you know if the length of the burner pipe has any effect on performance ??
I have it at 8" of pipe from the shortest point of the throttle holes to the burner pipe end this is square cut

Then the throttle slots will be 4 off at 1/2" x 2 1/2" long this make it 80% of the internal circumference is open x 2 1/2" long

The nozzle tip is adjustable & 2" long this is square cut

The outer mount tube is 3 1/2" long and will be shaped to suit the inner wall of the forge

thanks for any info in advance.

Originally Posted by bluesman7

I used a piece of 1-1/4" pipe for my nozzle. 1" seems like it would be too small to me on a 3/4" burner.

was your tip conical or just square cut
I have seen some machined on the inside to 5° helps as well as some that just use a 3/4" to 1" reducer for the tip and nothing else ?

Originally Posted by Substance

also do you know if the length of the burner pipe has any effect on performance ??
I have it at 8" of pipe from the shortest point of the throttle holes to the burner pipe end this is square cut

.

Mine is 7" here. I've only built the one so I don't know how much effect that extra 1" will have. As I said I used an 1-1/4" nozzle and I find it runs well with 1-3/8" overhang. This keeps the primary flame wide and short.

Originally Posted by Substance

was your tip conical or just square cut
I have seen some machined on the inside to 5° helps as well as some that just use a 3/4" to 1" reducer for the tip and nothing else ?

Mine is not flared. It is just a straight bore with a step at the end of the 3/4" mixing tube. I gather that the idea here is to reduce the velocity and that the step actually helps by introducing turbulence into the larger diameter.

Very, very nice!