Thread: Cable damascus?

Originally Posted by randydance062449

Now for a basic question if I may....

One of our guys, JBalls, may have access to some military grade aircraft arresting cable. The diameter is 1 .5 " with a 1/4" hemp core. He will try to get the military specs for more info.

So, what length should we cut it to allow for welding and clamping/twisting.

Ya, I know the hemp core may be a problem but maybe it will simply burn out then we have to twist it to take up the slack. Not to mention that a 1"+ diameter piece of steel will flatten out to a very long/wide piece of steel.

Hold on to some for me if possible

For the record, Randy, I have some O1 that I forged out to 1/16 by 3/4 (approximate) in stock.

Originally Posted by randydance062449

Wedge grind with a 6" wheel, 7/8 finished width of blade, 1/4" thick spine.
The 1095 would have to be either 1/16" or 1/8" at most.

Originally Posted by randydance062449

Wedge grind with a 6" wheel, 7/8 finished width of blade, 1/4" thick spine.
The 1095 would have to be either 1/16" or 1/8" at most.

How is that? You can always make it flatter. And if you make a rectangular billet, you hammer the blade portion of the billet wedge shaped, no?

Bruno, do you try to forge in some of the hollow or do you just forge a flat wedge?

Originally Posted by Bruno

How is that? You can always make it flatter. And if you make a rectangular billet, you hammer the blade portion of the billet wedge shaped, no?

Originally Posted by paco

Hold on to some for me if possible

Will do....

found this gang box at work down the back of the yard,
now just need to confirm if it is condemned cables
sure hope so LOL

Originally Posted by JDM61

Bruno, do you try to forge in some of the hollow or do you just forge a flat wedge?

Usually I forge a triangular wedge, and leave the edge thickness at something between 1/16 and 1/8.
that gives me room enough to grind straight without having to grind more than is necessary.

However, sometimes I want to make a razor wider than is possible using that approach. In that case I use a hardy and a ball peen hammer to actually hammer out the hollow to maximum width. This is not really efficient in terms of time, since this requires a lot more attention to detail, and a lot of care has to be take to make sure that it stays symmetrical and even enough that the hollows can be ground without forging dents remaining.

It's generally not worth the bother, and only useful if you've started with the wrong size of stock for what you wanted to do.

good day at work the slings are CONDEMNED so I can have all I want.
so grabbed a couple of the greasy tight wraps that are about Ø1 to Ø1.25" & 1 of the flexible slings that are made up of the smaller weaved cables for a different effect maybe
the tight weave slings are about 14' each of cable
the loose weave is about 8' all up

next chance I get will be cutting down to 1' or so bits & welding the ends
looks like my little forge & the 50t press at work might get some work outs

After burning out all of the grease and rust, clamp them in the press at welding heat and twist them like a mother before you try to flatten them into a bar.

Originally Posted by Substance

good day at work the slings are CONDEMNED so I can have all I want.
so grabbed a couple of the greasy tight wraps that are about Ø1 to Ø1.25" & 1 of the flexible slings that are made up of the smaller weaved cables for a different effect maybe
the tight weave slings are about 14' each of cable
the loose weave is about 8' all up

next chance I get will be cutting down to 1' or so bits & welding the ends
looks like my little forge & the 50t press at work might get some work outs

After I posted that, I wondered if you forge more to the "hollow" shape with stuff like the suminigashi?

Originally Posted by Bruno

Usually I forge a triangular wedge, and leave the edge thickness at something between 1/16 and 1/8.
that gives me room enough to grind straight without having to grind more than is necessary.

However, sometimes I want to make a razor wider than is possible using that approach. In that case I use a hardy and a ball peen hammer to actually hammer out the hollow to maximum width. This is not really efficient in terms of time, since this requires a lot more attention to detail, and a lot of care has to be take to make sure that it stays symmetrical and even enough that the hollows can be ground without forging dents remaining.

It's generally not worth the bother, and only useful if you've started with the wrong size of stock for what you wanted to do.