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Thread: Grinding razors
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09-14-2007, 07:34 PM #11
Does this pertain to re-grinding as well?
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09-14-2007, 08:33 PM #12
- Join Date
- May 2005
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- East Liverpool, Ohio
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Thanked: 324Mike's advice is sound and there's really not much to add. Learn your steel and heat treating and the rest is just shaping and finishing the steel and there are many ways to do that. Probably the biggest challenge to someone trying to regrind razors is going to be minimizing the heat. Once you top 300 degrees, you will probably ruin the temper and with thin blades, you hit 300 degrees very, very quickly when grinding, particularly at high speeds. So a lot of patience and a very light touch is in order.
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09-14-2007, 08:50 PM #13
Thanks Robert, Keep up the amazing work! One of these days i will be commissioning you to make me a one of kind piece.
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09-16-2007, 02:41 AM #14
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- Oct 2006
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- 1,898
Thanked: 995Re-grinding is similar to grinding after heat treatment. Instead of grinding out the leftover, coarser scratches from the early shaping and profiling, you're removing pits and scratches accumulated from use or abuse.
As Robert suggested, grinding thin steel can become a heartbreak very quickly. A slower speed machine is very helpful to avoid overheating. Going slow and cautiously until you've built up more time and experience is required.
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09-16-2007, 03:51 PM #15
Bruno,
I use a Bader BIII. It is 1 1/2 hp, variable speed. The variable speed is very important for razors so you don't get things too hot. I have the flat platten assembly and contact wheels from 1/2" up to 8".
You can see it here: http://www.stephenbader.com/
Usually, the best place to buy it is here: http://www.popsknifesupplies.com/grinder.html
It is expensive. But IMHO it is the best. For a second opinoin, contact Lynn. He got one last spring.
Tim Z.
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09-16-2007, 04:27 PM #16
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- St. Louis, Missouri, United States
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Thanked: 4942
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09-16-2007, 04:39 PM #17
Thanks Tim.
I just might rip my Kim Clijsters poster from the wall and put up a picture of that beauty... (Ok not really but you get my point ).
This is everything I was looking for in a grinder. Especially the variable width contact wheels.
Unfortunately this costs 5 times more than I can justify. And that is without shipping. I think I will save this link for when I build my workplace (kingdom) in the garden in 2 or 3 years time. Then I might buy it if I am still making razors by then.
I am going to buy this one probably
http://www.tendotools.com/documents/...15.xml?lang=en
I have tried it over the weekend, and it works great. Only the contact wheel is too large to re-grind hollow grounds, but other than that it works great for removing honewear and shaping scales.
It is not high end, but for the price it is very useful.Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
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09-16-2007, 04:44 PM #18
- Join Date
- Apr 2007
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- Scotland
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Thanked: 4A lot of those 4"(?) woodworking sanders are a bit underpowered for grinding metal unless you cut the belt down to something like 2".
I'd like one of these
http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/grinder.html
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09-16-2007, 08:23 PM #19
Bruno,
You might want to consider building one similar to the KMG that Murph mentioned. It is a lot more versatile than the table sander you tried. If you have some basic metal working skills, it wouldn't be that difficult. You can buy the wheels you need from Bader.
The table/disc sander is pretty limited in what you can do with it. It was designed mostly for making things flat. Unless the wheels are rubber coated, they are not meant to be worked on. The all metal wheels will wear very quickly. Then, you will have a ot of trouble with belt tracking.
The only thing I don't like about the KMG is that once you add all the options, you've paid for a Bader. The KMG does have a very good reputation among the knifemakers. I'm just sold on the Bader.
I hope this helps and doesn't confuse things...
Tim Z.
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09-16-2007, 08:30 PM #20