Thread: Grinding razors

Originally Posted by Bruno

Actually I do know a guy who could help me make one of my own.

If I can get the wheels separately, and find a variable speed motor or a motor with variable transmission, then it could be far cheaper to make one of my own.
Tim is indeed right that there is nothing really fundamentally complex about those KMGs.

I just looked at the picture of the KMG again, and there is just one thing I don't understand: how does the belt stay on the wheels. I don't see gliders so I assume the drive and guiding wheel are slightly hollow.
Is that correct or is this thing just built to very tight tolerances?

It's built to very tight tolerances. I don't have a Bader, but I can't imagine anything better than my variable speed KMG. It's built like a tank. The drive and tracking wheels are slightly crowned and striated, as well.

Bruno, check out Wayne Goddard's "The Wonder of Knifemaking" and "The $50 Knife Shop". There are some great ideas in there for making your own grinder on the cheap, and most of the questions you've asked are answered there, in wonderful detail. It's almost like being in his shop...and if you wonder if he knows what he's talking about, I can assure you he does.

I have been looking at Wayne Goddard's books and my scrap/stuff pile and thinking I might be able to make a small belt grinder. What size contact wheels would you recommend for razors? Would you use the same size wheel on a full hollow and wedge?

Thinking about tinkering,

Charlie

Originally Posted by spazola

I have been looking at Wayne Goddard's books and my scrap/stuff pile and thinking I might be able to make a small belt grinder. What size contact wheels would you recommend for razors? Would you use the same size wheel on a full hollow and wedge?

Thinking about tinkering,

Charlie

I'm currently grinding on an 8-inch wheel. For the size razors I like, it gives me the best results. I'm a big fan of the single concave, but with a very thin edge. You get the stiffness of a wedge, but the ease of sharpening (almost) of a full hollow. I'd guess mine are around 1/3 hollow. A larger wheel will give a less radiused grind (flatter, less hollow). You'd need a couple different size smaller wheels for a full hollow.

Heres another question what kind of buffer do you guys use? or do you use paste on belts

Originally Posted by ucliker

Heres another question what kind of buffer do you guys use? or do you use paste on belts

I use a converted bench grinder. 3450 rpm. Take the guards off and makes an acceptable buffer for light work, for cheap ($34). I also have a Sears buffer ($99). It works about the same as the converted grinder.

what type of wheel should be used in conjunction with a chrome oxide honing compound? (felt, spiral sewn cotton etc...)

Thanks Joe. I will check out Wayne's books.

Originally Posted by edk442

what type of wheel should be used in conjunction with a chrome oxide honing compound? (felt, spiral sewn cotton etc...)

Really, it depends, but for most work I use an 8-inch spiral sewn (vs. concentric) cotton muslin wheel. It's relatively stiff, holds compound well, and is less apt to snatch the work piece out of your hands than a looser buff.

Originally Posted by murph

I think you'll be lucky to find a European dealer.

Another Swedish grinder/beltsander:

http://www.nordellknives.com/eng/eng_bandslip.htm
(Prices in SEK)