Thread: My visit to Mastro Livi in Perugia, Umbria, Italy April 2008

On our recent trip to Italy we had decided on staying on an “Agriturismo”, living on a farm. It was a wonderful place in Umbria. Located just outside Gubbio, less than an hour away from Perugia.

We had spent a few days visiting places near and far; Assisi (The church of St Francesco), Florence and Pisa with its leaning tower and just driving in the mountains to enjoy the views. We had eaten pizza, panini, mozzarella, gelato (wonderful Italian icecream), procciutto and had just so many espressos and cappucinos one could just take. Not to forget the wonderful Italian wines, we found some nice Umbrian wines, and I love Valpolicella so I had a glass or two of those too.

Before we left I had told my wife about “a place where they make straight razors” nearby and thought little about it, I did print out directions from Google maps and brought with me, but I was still a bit hesitant.

My wife asked me early in the week about the “razor place” and I replied that we maybe could go by it later. Before the trip to Florece and Pisa we decided we could go and see about the razors the day after that trip. I did emphasize that the razors weren’t exactly cheap and told her that they start @ €300. Well, she still thought we could go and have a look, even more so after I had told her that I had “been assigned” to take some photos of the workshop on an internet forum; “Well, then you can’t come home and tell them you never went there, how would that look?”.

So it was finally decided, we went up early, had a nice breakfast (Italian bread, proccuitto, cheese and an espresso!) The road to Perugia offers the most amazing views of the Umbrian landscape. Large parts of the road runs along the ridge of the mountains and you can cerainly understad why there is a village with the name “Belvedere” (=Nice view) there. There is also the extremely quaint notion of “working girls” sitting beside the road, and quite obviously offering their services, sometimes.

Anyhow, as we got closer to Perugia there was a traffic jam, Italian style! Cars everywhere, and the stripes on the road indicating lanes mean little to these people. Half an heartattack later we reached our exit and navigated the industrial area behind an old man that indicated he intended to turn at every crossing, which he eventually did, 5 streets after he had started blinking and just before the one we were going to.

It hadn’t been easy to enter the address into the GPS, as Google maps and the internet site address said Via Scienza, while the GPS called the street Via della Scienza, probably the same thing to someone that knows the language, but it had made it hard for us to find it in the GPS navigator. But at last we stood outside Mastro Livi’s workshop!

It was a small shop, and behind it a workshop the same size. We went in and were met by an old lady and an old gentleman. I started to ask for “razors” and was very soon aware that this would be very interesting as they didn’t speak any english. We quite soon established that it was razors I was looking fo and she pointed to the large display behind me, I don’t really know how I had failed to see it as it took up most of the shop and it was filled with razors of different sizes and materials. Damascus steel, carbon steel, olive, mother of pearl, ebony, ivory... easy to say, I had come to straight razor heaven!

After a few minutes the lady went to the phone and made a call, and proclaimed “Arriva”, so I guessed that someone that could speak english would soon arrive. While we were waiting she was showing me different razors and we had a very nice conversation that none of us understood.

After a while someone did arrive, Mastro Livi himself! Unfortunately he doesn’t speak a lot of english either, but we communicated through some words, pointing and nodding, this was really an awesome experience! He asked me where I came from and I explained “Svezia” (Sweden)!

I tried to explain that I had heard about him through internet forums and mentioned that I’m a member at “The Shave Den” and “Straight Razor Place” and then I recalled Lynn and mentioned his name and his face shone up! He showed me the contents of the display with great enthusiasm!

He explained to me which ones that would be the greatest shavers. All through this I had a smile on my face, my wife told me later. After I had decided on the razor I wanted to aquire, not so much from how it looked but from how I percieved Mastro Livi's explanation on how good a shaver it would be, he kept on explaining and showing me his work, it is safe to say that this gentleman loves his work!

At some point I asked if it was ok to take some photos and was told it was ok so I started shooting. I also engaged my wife to take some photos.

After the transaction was completed and Mastro Livi had inscribed my name in my new razor and it had been polished and stropped, I was invited into the workshop. Here Mastro Livi started showing the different phases of making a razor. He showed me a huge chunk of damascus he was currently working on in the forge.

I was guided though the different parts of the workshop and all over there were razors in different stages of completion, this was truly awesome! He explained to me that the worksop was small, and he got dust everywhere, but as I understood it he is moving to a bigger workshop next year, something he seemed to look forward to.

We finished the visit with my wife taking a photo of me and the Mastro. We had been at the workshop for over an hour and had enjoyed the hospitality of the Mastro and his companions in the workshop and the time seemed to stand still.

I guess you can tell from my story that I had a very good time, and I felt like a small child in a toystore! And I now own a Mastro Livi Razor!


Mastro Livi showing off a huge razor!


The noises from the oven and beating are almost deafening and you feel the work in every fall of the hammer!


One of the many machines; One of the sanding belts, there were several in the workshop!


Me (on a bad hair day) and Mastro Livi.


Home at last, the razor on display and I'm getting ready for a shower and a shave!


My technique is far from perfected yet, but I guess you can fathom the concentration put into this shave.

Great story. Thanks for sharing! Sounds like an excellent vacation and a Livi razor must make quite the souvenir.

Any of those pics around?

Looks like he meant to include pictures with the last few lines he wrote, but forgot.

Oh, doesn't the pictures show
I can, obviously, see them... Maybe a moderator can come a long and PM me what might be wrong...

For going to all that effort to see the place, I thought he'd at least gave you a razor for free. :P

Originally Posted by poona

For going to all that effort to see the place, I thought he'd at least gave you a razor for free. :P

After having seen with my own eyes what work, effort and passion he puts into his work I can vouch for that they are worth every cent! (Oh, and yeah, I didn't opt for the €300... it ended up a bit more expensive )

Well done.
brian

Very nice Johan!!

Thanks for the great post, it looks and sounds like your vacation was outstanding

Thanks for sharing with all of us, and Congrats!

sounds like a once in a lifetime visit with someone who really enjoys his work. Great story.

Pictures!!! How are you attaching them. I am not a mod so I cannot edit your post to see your img tag to see what is wrong but have attached my share, what is the string you are using to inline attach the photos?

It is funny how you mention Lyn’s name and the connection is instantly made.