Thread: Natural options for "1-8k work"

that's a strange progression indeed but if it works then I guess it works. I stil haven't decided yet. I recently borowed a naniwa workstone (1 & 3 K) from a friend and I know I want a decent bevel setter. I'm drawn to the La Pyrenee au blue from ardennes but it stil seems like a big gamble. (I'll probably buy it anyway as soon as I find a job though)

I think a stone like the La Pyrenees is more for people who insist on a natural stone, or maybe those on a budget and with a bit of patience. It's a nice fit for me.

As to my weird progression, there were two or three shaves in between as well.

Originally Posted by bill3152

I'm not speaking for gssixgun but synthetics can get you to the place where you can use the natural after a certain point. When I first started using naturals, I honed to a certain point on synthetics and experimented different ways with maintaining sharpness. If I lost it, I was doing something wrong, if I maintained,I was on the right path. Do as you will, but its an uphill climb starting on naturals unless your next door neighbor is proficient and willing to help you.

Maybe I'm in the minority but I'm having an easier time learning on naturals/coticules than I was on synthetics.

They sell here in Bulgaria a hard slate , witch is fast on slurry and it is very good midle stone in 2 - 6 k level . It didnot chip the edge and it polish very good for this grit . Leaves very sharp edges also .
It is sold also in combination with a fine sandstone , that can be used for chips repair and bevell seting .
I tink Hunter blades has 1 of theese .

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Originally Posted by RusenBG

They sell here in Bulgaria a hard slate , witch is fast on slurry and it is very good midle stone in 2 - 6 k level . It didnot chip the edge and it polish very good for this grit . Leaves very sharp edges also .
It is sold also in combination with a fine sandstone , that can be used for chips repair and bevell seting .
I tink Hunter blades has 1 of theese .

Ã�‘Ã�µÃ�»Ã�³Ã�¸ÑÂ� Ã�·Ã�° Ã�·Ã�°Ñ‚Ã�¾Ñ‡Ã�²Ã�°Ã�½Ã�µ - Ã�µÑÂ�Ñ‚Ã�µÑÂ�Ñ‚Ã�²Ã�µÃ�½ Ã�ºÃ�°Ã�¼ÑÅÃ�º Ã�³Ñ€. Ã�¡Ã�¾Ñ„Ã�¸ÑÂ� Ã�“Ã�µÃ�¾ Ã�Å“Ã�¸Ã�»Ã�µÃ�² • OLX.bg

Do you have what they are called in English?

On the site they are presented as Belgian stones, but I think the white type is the Wallachian sandstone, and the dark, shale from the Carpathians. The Wallachian sandstone is somewhat known stone, for the shale, I'm not familiar with it.

I am afraid the availability of cheap synthetic stones in the West has eroded our knowledge of natural hones. OTOH Perret describes only 2 sharpening stones in his 1790 book La Pogonotomie ou l'art d'apprendre à se raser soi-même. The one is a coticule, the other a millstone for grinding razors. He considers the Belgian blue that naturally backs the coticule useless. After the millstone he progresses to the coticule straight away. In his book L'art du coutelier, starting on page 61 he describes 5 different natural stones amongst which the coticule.

In Japan they are much prouder of their traditions and especially katana sword makers use numerous stones from coarse to fine to sharpen and polish their razors. So Yamashita is very knowledgeable about natural Japnes hones. He helped me find a very nice Nakayama to my specifications. He may be able to set you up with a progression of 1-8K hones. This is his site: Japan Tool

Originally Posted by ShaveWares

Maybe I'm in the minority but I'm having an easier time learning on naturals/coticules than I was on synthetics.

I don't know if you are in the minority or not, but I have preferred natural stones for razors for a long time. Not because you can't get something good on synthetics, but the naturals that I have never cause any microchipping, etc, and in the end, the edges off of a natural and even the finest synthetic stones are fairly similar. Only the very fine oxides (0.1 micron, etc) can make the edges go beyond that level, but it's a very transient edge that they create, and unless you constantly use them, it feels like you're struggling to keep that edge (and something like 0.1 micron iron oxide does make a razor that causes me a lot of weepers).

Anyway, naturals and a real vintage linen makes for a really nice combination, and a razor that always seems to be the same sharpness level.

On the site they are presented as Belgian stones, but I think the white type is the Wallachian sandstone, and the dark, shale from the Carpathians. The Wallachian sandstone is somewhat known stone, for the shale, I'm not familiar with it.

\
No this stones are mined and cut here in Bulgaria - i know the man and i have colect a raw stones from the nature . \They aregood stones for the prise of a 15 bucs . \Maybe there is a similar stones in other places i do not know .

Originally Posted by RusenBG

\
No this stones are mined and cut here in Bulgaria - i know the man and i have colect a raw stones from the nature . \They aregood stones for the prise of a 15 bucs . \Maybe there is a similar stones in other places i do not know .

These specific stones, the Wallachian sandstone and Carpathian shale are somewhat famous stones in the Eastern Europe.
SHARPENING STONE - wulflund.com

Unless you've seen the mine, or have any papers that say so, I wouldn't be so sure about their origin.
Of course, you could be right. I haven't tried the stone to be sure. But I might give it a shot.