Thread: DMT 8C or ATOMA?

Originally Posted by pfries

General rule of thumb is double the grit rating of the lapping plate you choose and that would be the coarsest stone you would want to lap with it.
the DMT8C is 325 grit so would safely do a 650 grit stone.
The boundaries can be pushed but you must go easy.
For an all purpose I would get the 400,
you could also use the 600 but go very gently and keep it under running water for a 1k stone.
I would not get the 1200 for general purpose.
Again I know people will chime in and refute this it is a rule of thumb,
just keep in mind you can drive a nail with a monkey wrench but it is not the best tool for the job.

Thanks for the help. Would a 400 be good for lapping finishing stones as well or will it make the stones surface a bit rough? Maybe it is good to finish off with a high grit sandpaper after lapping a finishing stone with an ATOMA 400?

Originally Posted by Ludvig

Thanks for the help. Would a 400 be good for lapping finishing stones as well or will it make the stones surface a bit rough? Maybe it is good to finish off with a high grit sandpaper after lapping a finishing stone with an ATOMA 400?

I use my DMT8C for all of my stones, there is no negative effect using it on the Naniwa 12k,
some do prefer a finer finish on there finishers and I have lapped my 12k on 2k wet dry and have seen no difference in the finished product.
That being said I know some naturals will perform better with a glazing/glass finish
but then gents that really know the naturals will have to chime in as I am just getting started with natural stones.

Originally Posted by pfries

I use my DMT8C for all of my stones, there is no negative effect using it on the Naniwa 12k,
some do prefer a finer finish on there finishers and I have lapped my 12k on 2k wet dry and have seen no difference in the finished product.
That being said I know some naturals will perform better with a glazing/glass finish
but then gents that really know the naturals will have to chime in as I am just getting started with natural stones.

I'll by the 400 then to use on all stones. And probably a 2k sandpaper for the natural finisher

I have dmts and atomas. I have the 400 and 1200 atoma. I hardly use the 400. The 1200 I use all the time as I maintenance lap my hones, I don't wait for them to get out of shape, just to keep on top of them and I use them almost everyday. You may be better served using coarser wet dry for the time or two you need it and finish with the 1200 that you will use often. A 400 or 325 IMO is too rough for a 12k stone. I just got a few new Jnats and I use 60 grit wet dry to get them mostly flat before I will sacrifice an expensive diamond plate. Just something to think about. And the plates do not last forever.

Originally Posted by Ludvig

Thanks for the help. Would a 400 be good for lapping finishing stones as well or will it make the stones surface a bit rough? Maybe it is good to finish off with a high grit sandpaper after lapping a finishing stone with an ATOMA 400?

Hi there! I have the 400 Atoma and the 1200 as well as a DMT325 (well worn). For dressing, I would prefer to use the well worn DMT on my finishers (Shapton glass 16k and the other naturals) before I use the 400 Atoma. I believe the Atoma 1200 or the DMT325, dress the surface better on the 8k level and up, than the Atoma 400 does. But to be honest I have only tried the Atoma 400 up to the 8k Shapton glass only (to dress the surface) and I don't remember being any different on the final edge. But the lapping I have done on the turi, for example, with the 400 Atoma doesn't leave as smooth a surface as the Atoma 1200 does.

Somebody will have to comment on the 600. I think it could work, but I don't have one! The 400 is a stone eater, making all initial lapping a breeze that produce an even "smooth" flat surface. The 1200 shines in lapping already lapped surfaces or refreshing and dressing a stone for honing, specially finishers (8k and up).

If you want, you could use a new DMT325 for your initial 1k to 12k or 16 k lapping, follow by the Atoma 1200 to lap and dress stones from 4k up. I wouldn't use the Atoma 1200 for 1k lapping, IMO. Hope this helps! Double O

Originally Posted by Neil Miller

So, first Laurens has his razor called fat, now you are insinuating I'm an old guy.

A fine state of affairs...

Neil 'Duane' Miller

I would never tell a razor that it's scales make it's tang look fat, you don't want to shave withh a cranky razor.

Originally Posted by Double0757

Hi there! I have the 400 Atoma and the 1200 as well as a DMT325 (well worn). For dressing, I would prefer to use the well worn DMT on my finishers (Shapton glass 16k and the other naturals) before I use the 400 Atoma. I believe the Atoma 1200 or the DMT325, dress the surface better on the 8k level and up, than the Atoma 400 does. But to be honest I have only tried the Atoma 400 up to the 8k Shapton glass only (to dress the surface) and I don't remember being any different on the final edge. But the lapping I have done on the turi, for example, with the 400 Atoma doesn't leave as smooth a surface as the Atoma 1200 does.

Somebody will have to comment on the 600. I think it could work, but I don't have one! The 400 is a stone eater, making all initial lapping a breeze that produce an even "smooth" flat surface. The 1200 shines in lapping already lapped surfaces or refreshing and dressing a stone for honing, specially finishers (8k and up).

If you want, you could use a new DMT325 for your initial 1k to 12k or 16 k lapping, follow by the Atoma 1200 to lap and dress stones from 4k up. I wouldn't use the Atoma 1200 for 1k lapping, IMO. Hope this helps! Double O

Yes it would be nice if someone could give their opinion on whether the 600 is a good compromise and therefore the better choice.

Originally Posted by Ludvig

Yes it would be nice if someone could give their opinion on whether the 600 is a good compromise and therefore the better choice.

Would it be out of the question for you to buy 2 plates ?
I used a 1200 Atoma to lap as low as 800 King stone. It worked just fine but it did break in quickly & had I continued it might've broke down quickly too. it would be ideal to have the 400 as well but if you buy the 400 alone you could then use your stones to lap each other. e.g. flatten your 12k with the 400 Atoma then use your 8k to smooth the face of the 12k.

Originally Posted by Ludvig

Yes it would be nice if someone could give their opinion on whether the 600 is a good compromise and therefore the better choice.

In my experience (not with lapping plates) a compromise is exactly that, a compromise, you will normally end.up with. The worst of both worlds.
I only have a 400g Atoma and have lapped my naniwa 10k with it.

Ludvig
I mainly use the #600 Atoma for general stone dressing and flattening like when I am at my bench honing razors, and the #400 when I need to actually flattening a stone that has a dish shape or frown shape. I have the DMT, but the Atoma product to me feels a lot more like a tool in my had because of the heavy milled metal base plate.

So for average daily work with the #600 I find that the scratches it leaves on the stones can me minimalized with lighter pressure and by allowing the mud to remain as you lap instead of using it under running water.

Alex