Thread: Thirty Thousand

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Let me offer a mor expedient suggestion. If after 8k you jump to a prepolisher, like a fine Suita or not so fine Asagi etc, with diamond plate slurry you will achieve the bevel polish he gets in that video in about 30 laps not 20 mins. The edge should already have been established by 8k.

You can then finish on a polisher also with an appropriate # of strokes for that particular stone. Again this will be a # of strokes not 20 minutes.
I really would not have the time to waste with that CBN slurry method.

Thanks for that.
I was thinking that the more you work the slurry the finer it becomes and then the finer the slurry the better the edge..

Originally Posted by JOB15

Thanks for that.
I was thinking that the more you work the slurry the finer it becomes and then the finer the slurry the better the edge..

This is true to a point but you can also run the risk of honing past a good edge. As I said the edge should be established at 8k therefore excessive honing can be detrimental.
Look at the razor below. I have polished the bevel to the point you can see grain in the metal but look at the edge. It is starting to suffer because it was already properly sharp way back in the honing process. I still like polished bevels but I like a good shave better. If they coincide I'm a happy chappy but my focus is the edge not the bevel & as I said that is developed earlier.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

This is true to a point but you can also run the risk of honing past a good edge. As I said the edge should be established at 8k therefore excessive honing can be detrimental.
Look at the razor below. I have polished the bevel to the point you can see grain in the metal but look at the edge. It is starting to suffer because it was already properly sharp way back in the honing process. I still like polished bevels but I like a good shave better. If they coincide I'm a happy chappy but my focus is the edge not the bevel & as I said that is developed earlier.

Thanks.
I have recently realised what you are saying.
I've started to concentrate on the 1k/4k shaptons to not only set the bevel but to have the blade very sticky sharp from that point and only when ive achieved that will i move onto the 8k and forward.
Have you got a picture of one of you best edges?
Thanks again

Originally Posted by JOB15

Thanks.
I have recently realised what you are saying.
I've started to concentrate on the 1k/4k shaptons to not only set the bevel but to have the blade very sticky sharp from that point and only when ive achieved that will i move onto the 8k and forward.
Have you got a picture of one of you best edges?
Thanks again

Yes really need a good foundation or it's an uphill battle.
Ironically never had a m'scope when I did my best edge but it was the best razor as well so that made a difference. Iwasaki tamahagane western.
Don't know about best edge pics but I can show you 2 pumas that shave exactly the same. I wish I knew why tho.

Maybe the 1st one is well stropped..

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Yes really need a good foundation or it's an uphill battle.
Ironically never had a m'scope when I did my best edge but it was the best razor as well so that made a difference. Iwasaki tamahagane western.
Don't know about best edge pics but I can show you 2 pumas that shave exactly the same. I wish I knew why tho.

Maybe the 1st one is well stropped..

Now i understand your first pic.
The bevel is very dark in your pics .
The actual edges are very nice.

Originally Posted by JOB15

Now i understand your first pic.
The bevel is very dark in your pics .
The actual edges are very nice.

The lights in my USB scope didn't work on my old computer so pics varied a lot but a dark sillhouette is also a great way to see edge discrepancies. Remeber, it's not all about the bevel polish.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

The lights in my USB scope didn't work on my old computer so pics varied a lot but a dark sillhouette is also a great way to see edge discrepancies. Remeber, it's not all about the bevel polish.

You know for years now magnified Pics have been a double edge sword on here, there is some good from seeing the edge as it progresses through the stages and getting to see what an experienced honer sees, BUT There is the other side, when people start chasing the scratches and chasing a Mirror Bevel rather then chasing a comfortable shave...

Might want to read what Oz wrote there again, it is pretty important "It is not all about the bevel polish" remember to stop polishing before you pass right by a great shaving edge

Originally Posted by gssixgun

You know for years now magnified Pics have been a double edge sword on here, there is some good from seeing the edge as it progresses through the stages and getting to see what an experienced honer sees, BUT There is the other side, when people start chasing the scratches and chasing a Mirror Bevel rather then chasing a comfortable shave...

Might want to read what Oz wrote there again, it is pretty important "It is not all about the bevel polish" remember to stop polishing before you pass right by a great shaving edge

How would you know if your gonna pass a great edge?
The best thing about the microscope is it lets me see when im not honing rite to the edge, usually near the tip on the down stroke.
I try heel first, nose first,straight,x-stroke and still some times dont get right to the edge.
The only way ive found to correct that mistake is by adding the pressure of a finger tip or my new stroke which i invented and call ,"The window wiper" i'm sure you can guess its action
It must be caused by not holding the razor flat on the hone i guess...

Speaking for myself I put my 40x B&L stereo scope on the shelf a long time ago. I use a 30x eye loupe to check edges. When honing I always give them a looksee before I start to see if there is any micro chipping or other anomalies. I usually don't check them again until I am done. I never go by scratch patterns, only by the feel of the edge during the progression of the honing. As I've said many times, the lower the power of the magnification, the better my honing.

Originally Posted by JOB15

The only way ive found to correct that mistake is by adding the pressure of a finger tip ........

It must be caused by not holding the razor flat on the hone i guess...

Finger pressure can be a useful tool with uneven grinds but if your stroke is the problem 'pressure' is often also a problem.
IMHO pressure is only useful to thin the bevel area. To contact the edge a light touch works best.