Thread: Thirty Thousand

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Finger pressure can be a useful tool with uneven grinds but if your stroke is the problem 'pressure' is often also a problem.
IMHO pressure is only useful to thin the bevel area. To contact the edge a light touch works best.

Thanks i will keep that in mind.
I was thinking that the razor isnt flat. especially with a particular T.I blade.
I can see the water not being pushed by the tip.
Could the razor not be true, due to the fact that i have done previous bad honing on the blade.
I've learnt to hone with my 4 blades and my older brother 9 blades, all expensive razors and maybe a year on i'm only just honing them in the rite way.

If you're going to use your shapton 30k as a doorstop you can send it to me. I'll pay shipping.

Originally Posted by JOB15

Thanks i will keep that in mind.
I was thinking that the razor isnt flat. especially with a particular T.I blade.
I can see the water not being pushed by the tip.
Could the razor not be true, due to the fact that i have done previous bad honing on the blade.
I've learnt to hone with my 4 blades and my older brother 9 blades, all expensive razors and maybe a year on i'm only just honing them in the rite way.

Is it only on one side ?
If you know your honing to be the cause you may have introduced considerable wear but out of the factory warped spines & uneven grinds are more common than one might think. Sometimes we can tell from pics.

I think its the spine because it kinda has three notches along the spine, which lay on the hone instead of just a flat spine..But then i have a 7/8 bade that clearly wont sit flat, either the toe or heel is raised of the the hone. Thats why im thinking maybe ive done this to the blades.
I guess i will figure it out over time.
One mistake i know i make is having the hone between my legs on a coffee table.
I think i need it to be raised on say a dining table so i can get my elbow up level with the hone.

Originally Posted by RoyalCake

If you're going to use your shapton 30k as a doorstop you can send it to me. I'll pay shipping.

Youd have to pry it from my hands whilst i kicked and screamed

Originally Posted by JOB15

I think its the spine because it kinda has three notches along the spine, which lay on the hone instead of just a flat spine..But then i have a 7/8 bade that clearly wont sit flat, either the toe or heel is raised of the the hone. Thats why im thinking maybe ive done this to the blades.
I guess i will figure it out over time.
One mistake i know i make is having the hone between my legs on a coffee table.
I think i need it to be raised on say a dining table so i can get my elbow up level with the hone.

You need to be comfortable . I stand at the bench so my elbow is about a foot above the hone .

I had a Shapton 30k for a while but then picked up a German Frankonian stone which I preferred so I ended up selling the Shapton. I've also now got a couple of JNATS and a couple of coticules. I have a preference for natural stones as finishers.

Originally Posted by johnmrson

I had a Shapton 30k for a while but then picked up a German Frankonian stone which I preferred so I ended up selling the Shapton. I've also now got a couple of JNATS and a couple of coticules. I have a preference for natural stones as finishers.

I would like to sell my 30k but i think of it as part of a collection.
I took delivery of my Shapton Pond today
The only Shapton item missing is the Diamond lapping plate..
I think i will end up buying that down the line.
Although that could be money invested in my next Jnat or Straight Razor

Originally Posted by JOB15

I think its the spine because it kinda has three notches along the spine, which lay on the hone instead of just a flat spine..But then i have a 7/8 bade that clearly wont sit flat, either the toe or heel is raised of the the hone. Thats why im thinking maybe ive done this to the blades.
...

See videos WRT smiling blades and Rolling X. That's how I "chase the toe" on well-worn specimens, or hone the smilies of course. It's all in the rocking-properly done, and not over-done if you're trying to work back toward square.

I agree with you, about how do you know when you've gone past a great edge. I too own a scope to help me see what I'm doing, or not! Yea Dr. Matt has influenced me some too, but I am I wrong to believe that the smooth bevel extends right off of the edge? If so then the smoother the surface the cleaner (less "toothy") the edge? As you see I'm new to this also and am really enjoying these forums. I am also learning more about slurries too.