Thread: Hard Arkansas

A washita would be used by woodworkers. They are also not recomended for razors. This is why I mentioned it. Maybe start a thread asking what they might think. Take a pic of the sides also.

Originally Posted by Blistersteel

as far is I can tell from its history it was purchased at a woodworkers supply store (this from the original owner) in The north east side of Arkansas .salute .

It is either a hard arkansas or a washita. The density will tell you which. If the density is below 2.3 specific gravity, it's probably a washita, especially since it's devoid of mottling (which increases density). lilywhites that I've measured have been in the range of 2.1 specific gravity, well below anything usable of arkansas stones.

I fit in to the woodworker label mentioned above. Washitas and arkansas stones are a bit different, as opposed to the commentary that washitas are coarse and arkansas stones are fine, there is a bit more variability to a washita stone. I'd summarize my thoughts as follows.
* washita stones have a wider range.
* the labeled clear washitas without mottling (lilywhite, etc) tend to be coarse stones that were prized because they were fast cutting and sharp enough for woodworking, but could be used for a while such that they cut finer - certainly sharp enough for a plane iron to shave hair on an arm. I find that even settled in they are
* the unlabeled washitas, especially older ones, often are a bit tighter of pit, and if bought for a song, can be a servicable razor hone *but they have to be properly prepared or used for a while*. They will not be a match for a translucent or black arkansas stone, but they can be used to get a keen comfortable edge (albeit with a steeper learning curve).

In a world where black and translucent stones are available, I wouldn't buy a washita type stone to finish a razor, but if I had one already, I'd be willing to see what I could settle it into. I've got a couple that will finish a razor and give a comfortable shave, and a few (of the lilywhite type) that I just don't favor for razors because they have too big and too coarse of pores.

As is the case with any marginal stone, I find washitas work best as follows:
* work up the razor with your regular stroke
* strop it
* take about 20 strokes with heavy oil as lightly as you can (i mean really, as lightly as you can, and without letting the oil run away on the stone - the barrier is useful)
* linen and strop

shave with the razor

repeat the last two steps if the edge isn't satisfactory. You're trying to establish an edge that doesn't necessarily have the abrasive signature in it any longer, and using the stone just to thin it without letting the abrasive take a deep bite.

So really to use a washita you need heavy oil. Basically filling in the coarse pores of the stone. Essentially the blade gliding over the top.
To me it sounds like if you have one and need to use it. This will make the best with what you have other than that they're are better places to put your money in a stone .

Yes, if you're looking for a finisher, put your money elsewhere.

One aside - if you're finishing an edge with a black or trans ark, the washita is a fantastic setup stone for that because it does not leave deep grooves and most razors are in a hardness range and of a steel composition that works well with washitas and arks.

I ran into a finer washita doing a good job on a razor by accident. In the process i described, the first shave was tolerable, but not very good. The second shave was as good as any natural finisher I've used (after very light passes on heavy oil and linen and strop again). I have to assume that the linen (i do not use a charged linen) had left a slightly smoothed very thin edge and the second trip to the washita did not quite work to it.

When I looked at the edge under a microscope at 200x, it looked a lot like a trans/black ark edge.

I forgot to say what I was intending....

Sometimes washitas can be found for five bucks at a flea market, etc. If that's the case, it's nice to have one that's been agitated with a diamond hone (they cut fast at that), and one that's settled in. A fast cutting washita or soft arkansas will set a bevel faster than a 1000 grit waterstone, but the edge will not be in bad shape after it's done (something like a coarse diamond hone, for example, is very hard on an edge). Those three (fast washita, settled washita, prepared trans/black) would make a very nice three stone progression, and the first can be any cheap soft (like the multicolored things that smiths sells) if it's hard to find a good washita. The only caution is that any stone that's fast on the bevel is also going to be hard on the spine, so the usual spine protection steps apply. The aggressive washitas have a fantastic feel when cutting, and it can be easy to get carried away with them

Interesting

thank you dave.I've been testing that stone along with a few others (arks) and what my shave this morning told me was it likely falls into the pre-finisher slot.the shave was fair to tolerable but not a close and easy shave. Appreciate the information .salute .

At one point I had a washita that gave a serviceable edge. Nothing like a true finisher but I could see one being used for razors in the old days. Did a diluticot and it worked well

Would a washita make a good bevel setter?

From what I heard. They tend to micro chip. I haven't tried with heavy oil though.

Originally Posted by john3126

Would a washita make a good bevel setter?

I have been using mine to smooth my bevel before progressing to a soft Arkansas .salute .