Results 201 to 210 of 382
Thread: Hard Arkansas
-
09-09-2014, 01:53 AM #201
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
- Posts
- 2,110
Thanked: 458
-
09-09-2014, 08:15 AM #202
- Join Date
- Sep 2013
- Location
- NW Indiana
- Posts
- 1,060
Thanked: 246I just got a black translucent - finished lapping it tonight:
-
09-09-2014, 10:59 AM #203
Plaster of Paris you say, never thought about that. I don't have a belt sander but I have people who do so I can use them. I was thinking maybe a tile saw, I have a commercial grade one with water lines and everything just probably not a blade that is up to the task. What kinda blade do you think would work for cutting one side flat?
-
09-09-2014, 11:46 AM #204
-
09-09-2014, 11:50 AM #205
- Join Date
- Jan 2013
- Posts
- 97
Thanked: 13I haven't used a blade for a tile saw, but from reading, you'll need a diamond blade. The MOHS hardness on a hard arkansas is around 7. Diamonds are ten, so that gives you an idea of how hard they are. I took DaveW's advice and used my belt sander and it worked, but you have to be careful because the edges are sharp and can cut through the belt. Also, it get's hot on the edge and if there are small imperceptible cracks, then localized heat could cause them to become big, perceptible cracks. Just go slow. Oh yeah, if it's a friend's belt sander, take them a new one for when you're done. They'll need it.
-
09-09-2014, 11:55 AM #206
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
- Posts
- 2,110
Thanked: 458Give it a rip. I don't know what your blade is, but a cheap angle grinder blade (one of those diamond coated things that are less than 10 bucks) would easily do the job, too. If you have a tile saw already that has decent cut depth, and water, might as well use it.
If anyone else reads this and uses an angle grinder, always use a mask or a very wet sponge held against the diamond blade during the cut (like sopping wet) to make sure you're not breathing the dust. When I worked for a tile contractor, that's how we cut our runs of tile when we were inside a building (or really anywhere), a large sponge totally soaked, and the dust runs away in a slurry instead of getting dispensed into the air. Just score or mark a stone before the cut is started so that you have a guide to go by and end up with a nice even cut.
As far as plaster of paris, that's sort of a guess. A lot of the old irregular stones I've had have been bedded in plaster. The type of plaster it is, I don't know, but plaster of paris should work well and it's cheap and quick.
-
09-09-2014, 11:45 PM #207
- Join Date
- Dec 2013
- Posts
- 114
Thanked: 9
-
09-10-2014, 12:18 AM #208
Still working on the trans stone. It's coming along.
-
09-10-2014, 12:18 AM #209
Yeah that is exactly what I am trying to do. These stones are quite chippy on the bottom and sides as they are rough cut and not finished, so I am going to get some kind of resinous sealer to keep it from chipping anymore and also solve the porous issue. Then I am either going to use silicone or maybe a glass bed resin, or maybe plaster of paris.
-
09-10-2014, 12:19 AM #210