Thread: Expert Advise Required

Originally Posted by shooter74743

Getting a final grind on a razor perfect is tough, real tough.

I agree. Not only does the cutler have to get the grind perfect, but they have to have the skill and the eye to hammer the razor straight, too. That's why a razor that has both aspects covered is so special, and why a razor that's not perfect shouldn't be a big deal. If it shaves well, all is good. But if you are lucky enough to get a perfect grind (and I don't mean like perfect shiny, I mean in a weight and geometric profile that agrees with the way you shave - for example, I love a 6/8 razor with some extra weight in the spine but with the rest of the grind very extra super hollow - not a common thing), anyway, if you're lucky enough to get what you prefer and in a razor that's straight, give it the white knuckle grip and never sell it. It'll be a twaddle forever then to keep in shape no matter what medium is used, and the rare occasion that it needs honing will require removal of only a whisper of steel.

Ditto on the heavy-handedness of all of the synthetics. A single razor could shave an individual for a lifetime without too much wear. Give it a break!

Originally Posted by shooter74743

Most who criticize razor grinds have never made one.

Razors, btw, are not the only things suffering from a lack of continuity from the life long super productive makers with hand skill. Anyone who buys files will notice that things like needle and taper saw files are not as crisp or straight as they were 100 years ago, either.

Every one is bashing the manufacturers but I have a feeling I caused the problem.
I think I honed the blade using more pressure to the centre of the blade and therefore less to the heel and toe.
This must have formed a slight ark, extremely slight.
Hence when polishing on the jnats with a light touch, only the toe and heel were touching the stone.
So then , my next mistake : Thinking I could remedy the problem by using pressure on the 1k and making sure I took even amounts of metal off along the whole of the bevel. That would ensure the ark was still there.
I should have used the 1k with light to no pressure and that would have honed the toe and heel back in line with the middle of the blade.

Either that or there really was a design flaw with the blade.
I suppose it all goes in the "learnt" column

Originally Posted by JOB15

Every one is bashing the manufacturers but I have a feeling I caused the problem.
I think I honed the blade using more pressure to the centre of the blade and therefore less to the heel and toe.
This must have formed a slight ark, extremely slight.
Hence when polishing on the jnats with a light touch, only the toe and heel were touching the stone.
So then , my next mistake : Thinking I could remedy the problem by using pressure on the 1k and making sure I took even amounts of metal off along the whole of the bevel. That would ensure the ark was still there.
I should have used the 1k with light to no pressure and that would have honed the toe and heel back in line with the middle of the blade.

Either that or there really was a design flaw with the blade.
I suppose it all goes in the "learnt" column

Without having the blade in my hands I cant possibly comment on the cause. To me it doesn't really matter how this happened. As long as the spine to blade width is within the 3.5 to 4:1 ratio, then this blade is viable and all can be corrected. It may mean further grinding and I say grinding meaning done by hand on coarse stones.
This may be best done by a smith who's used to appraising blades and is familiar with what is required for correcting the geometry.

Joe

Well, it's going back to the maker now so hopefully all will end well.

All I'd like to contribute here is simply to highlight Glen's post (gssixgun). Within reasonable tolerances, all reasonable quality razors can be honed but it can take modifications to your honing stroke - no one technique will suit all razors and developing the ability to diagnose the razor's edge (e.g. using magic marker) and then customising your honing stroke to compensate and bring that edge on is a very important skill.

Goog luck, I hope it turns into a nice shaver for you.

James.

Originally Posted by guitstik

Are you certain that all of your hones are true? Use a pencil and mark the Jant with cross hatch pattern and then go over it with your lapping plate.

I was also going to offer the grid lapping advice. I like to grid lap a hone at least 2 times.

Originally Posted by Siguy

I was also going to offer the grid lapping advice. I like to grid lap a hone at least 2 times.

I started with the DMT 325 then eventually bought the Atoma 1200..
And recently I got the shapton diamond plate.
My hones are super true

Originally Posted by JOB15

Every one is bashing the manufacturers but I have a feeling I caused the problem.
I think I honed the blade using more pressure to the centre of the blade and therefore less to the heel and toe.
This must have formed a slight ark, extremely slight.
Hence when polishing on the jnats with a light touch, only the toe and heel were touching the stone.
So then , my next mistake : Thinking I could remedy the problem by using pressure on the 1k and making sure I took even amounts of metal off along the whole of the bevel. That would ensure the ark was still there.
I should have used the 1k with light to no pressure and that would have honed the toe and heel back in line with the middle of the blade.

Either that or there really was a design flaw with the blade.
I suppose it all goes in the "learnt" column

You sir have just earned a LOT of my respect and you could (not saying you did) have done just as you are speaking about...this was my initial thoughts. I know you didn't want to show the other side of the razor due to the makers mark, but I'm pretty sure I know the maker just by design & it's doubtful (not impossible) that the razor is ground that much off. I have looked closely at thin ground blades under pressure & the contact points are just like you showed. I would be willing to bet you are right handed. The good news is that it's correctable if you did it as you used tape. If it's a grind issue, I am willing to bet it will be made right. You are going to do just fine in this sport

Originally Posted by shooter74743

You sir have just earned a LOT of my respect and you could (not saying you did) have done just as you are speaking about...this was my initial thoughts. I know you didn't want to show the other side of the razor due to the makers mark, but I'm pretty sure I know the maker just by design & it's doubtful (not impossible) that the razor is ground that much off. I have looked closely at thin ground blades under pressure & the contact points are just like you showed. I would be willing to bet you are right handed. The good news is that it's correctable if you did it as you used tape. If it's a grind issue, I am willing to bet it will be made right. You are going to do just fine in this sport

Thanks for that
The reason I didn't show the other side of the blade was because the bevel was no where near as fat as the side I showed you guys , I thought everyone would have a go at me
I made sure I took even amounts of metal off both sides to keep the bevel even but eventually I got so disheartened I went bananas on the arked side and made the bevel massive.
It was at that point I contacted the dude who sold me it (in Vegas) .
He was super kind and hasn't charged me anything, not even return postage ..

P.S I am right handed

Originally Posted by Siguy

I was also going to offer the grid lapping advice. I like to grid lap a hone at least 2 times.

Oh 2 times... I'll follow your lead