Results 11 to 20 of 45
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06-03-2015, 12:19 AM #11
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06-03-2015, 01:14 AM #12
They are a cool stone. After the test shave with the black ark was very passable but not the greatest I dulled the edge on the side of the stone and made sure I put a little pressure not just weight of the blade to more then lightly kill the edge. I was testing it. Within 10 minutes I had an arm hair shaving razor. Only the washita so it's quite a versatile stone.
I really wanted the Norton trans, but the convenience of lee valley having the black arks in Canada was the deal sealer.
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06-03-2015, 01:48 AM #13
I am definitely thinking of Lee Valley for the black, good prices. My Norton trans is the pre 1950's kind with the green box. Not the ones with writing on the actual stone. I love how it can improve the edge off nearly any other finisher.
I will most likely add a pike washita first since Dan's black and my trans are probably in the same ball park edge wise.
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06-03-2015, 01:52 AM #14
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
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- 2,110
Thanked: 458It's all about the surface conditioning once you get into the good quality trans (which the nortons are, especially the old ones) and the blacks.
(I'd agree, you won't gain much by getting a black dans, but you might have something to gain getting a new soft and/or a pike washita).
I'd tell you guys how I spot washitas, but it's not guaranteed and a labeled pike washita is.
Other choices that are pike washitas:
*woodworker's delight
*carpenter's delight
* mechanic's friend
All will be similar to pike lilywhite, but they are less common. They can be cheap sometimes, and other times not. I'd pay the money for a pike, and half as much for the above.
Also, you want a pike no 1, rosy red or lilywhite. Many of the other unqualified washitas are finer and that's not what you want in this case.Last edited by DaveW; 06-03-2015 at 01:54 AM.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to DaveW For This Useful Post:
DireStraights (06-03-2015), MikeB52 (06-04-2015)
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06-03-2015, 02:05 AM #15
Yeah I have been doing a little reading lately and was surprised how different the old washita grades could be. Hopefully I can find a lily white or no 1. I haven't seen a rosy red but will definately check it out, thank you!
My coarsest oilstone(pure abrasive stones vs abrasive in matrix) is my drab green 10" charnley and it's not very coarse. It is a little softer than my Norton(can slurry with DMT without too much effort) but definately not near the softer ark levels. It was probably the type of charn woodworkers liked.
Novaculite is cool stuff. If the turkey stones didn't sell so high they would also be on my radar.
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06-03-2015, 11:16 AM #16
Very nice stone, another convert
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06-03-2015, 01:31 PM #17
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06-03-2015, 06:11 PM #18
So, no lapping required, just burnishing? Or, did you use it straight out of the box?
With all the talk about Silicon Carbide to lap Arks, I was wondering about this . . .
Lee Valley Tools - Important Announcement
Or is that just taking the easy way out?
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06-03-2015, 06:42 PM #19
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
- Posts
- 2,110
Thanked: 458I just threw one of those in my trash can a couple of weeks ago. Those are a hard bonded very coarse stone intended to used with soft waterstones. They will damage the surface of an arkansas stone and the arkansas stone will damage them by pulling particles off and quickly taking them out of flat.
They are so poorly regarded in the woodworking community (the norton flattening stone) that it's difficult to get someone to pay shipping to take one off your hands. They are a flattener that needs flattening sometimes, and they don't always come flat from the factory either. Flattening them is a chore because they're very coarse.
Loose silicon carbide grit is what you want, it's friable and breaks down easily, but cuts fast.
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The Following User Says Thank You to DaveW For This Useful Post:
Orville (06-03-2015)
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06-03-2015, 06:51 PM #20
Thanks . . . filing under "if it seems to good to be true" . . .