Results 21 to 30 of 45
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08-08-2015, 06:24 PM #21
Thanks for the interesting thread Frankenstein and videos Utopian
The video certainly opened up my eyes to the possibility of only having to acquire a single stone (as long as it comes with the 1k/3k cleaning/slurry stone).
I presume this would also work on both the 10k & 15k Gokumyo's (as long as one was happy with the 10k/15k as a finisher).Tony
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The Following User Says Thank You to Thug For This Useful Post:
Frankenstein (08-09-2015)
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08-08-2015, 06:36 PM #22
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Thanked: 1082Fantastic video! Thank you for taking the time.
Just goes to show what can be achieved with this remarkable stone.
It certainly puts things into perspective when some insist on going to the 1k everytime to get the bevel set.
I will give this a go sometime...
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08-08-2015, 10:30 PM #23
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Thanked: 12Thanks for taking the time to make the video Utopian! Really enjoyed this thread. Now I need an eBay special so I can try the 20k with some 400 slurry. Not sure it took you all that much longer than I have done with a King 1000 grit.
If it's worth doing, it's worth over doing!
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08-09-2015, 12:48 AM #24
Hi, nice video. I cant stand videos where people don't talk (no offence to any one who does that).
Whats in the jar with the yellow top?
It looks like you are wetting your thumb for the thumb pad test.
Is that what your doing?
My thumb has to be bone dry to get a good read.
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08-09-2015, 01:14 AM #25
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08-09-2015, 01:26 AM #26
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Thanked: 3795Or, just water and a bit of slurry.
It's a plastic mustard jar containing water for rinsing slurry off of blades. I believe that I get better sensitivity when I do the thumb pad test (TPT) with a wet thumb so the water jar serves a double duty.
Oh, and given the salts in the water and how long I sometimes go between water changes, a bit of antiseptic might not be a bad idea!
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JOB15 (08-09-2015)
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08-09-2015, 02:07 AM #27
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08-09-2015, 02:28 AM #28
Great to see some interest in this idea. It's an honour for me to be able to give ideas back to SRP, after having learned so much here over the years.
I only have my phone internet connection at the moment, so I can't really watch Ron's demonstration in entirety, but will be able to at work this week.
As mentioned, I used the 3k, and had a bevel in about 5 or so minutes, followed by about 10 mins to get to the end. This may have been because I don't tread lightly in the early stages of honing, and often use quite a bit of pressure. I figured, on this hone, once a good bevel had been set you can't go wrong - it's a finisher after all.
Regarding wedges. While I defer to Utopian's greater experience and knowledge, I'm not quite ready to say that this method will not work for wedges. I think it's pretty easy to put a good edge on a hollow ground, but I'm not ashamed to say it took me a very long time before I was really comfortable doing wedges. About 85% of my collection is wedges of one type or another spanning the period ~1770-1900 and I use them as daily shavers. None of these razors lay flush on the hone, all being warped to some extent - which is why I mention this. As long as you tape, and feel every part of the edge meeting the stone there should be no problem with them.
If anyone is interested, I would be happy to do a few different edges and provide some basic numbers and timings as a rough guide.Last edited by Frankenstein; 08-09-2015 at 02:41 AM.
I love the smell of shaving cream in the morning!
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markbignosekelly (08-09-2015)
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08-09-2015, 02:59 AM #29
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Thanked: 3795Sorry, I did in fact mislead with stating that this was not a good method for wedges. Of course it would work, but it would be slower.
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08-09-2015, 12:16 PM #30
Well, you all should be proud of yourselves, you got me to spend another a wad of cash on razor stuff. Just when I thought I was doing so well staying away from razors.
Than ≠ Then
Shave like a BOSS