Thread: Worth a dang?

1um film is 14-16k grit, you can go to .3um grit in film about 40-50K, you really don t need anything else, especially if you are just maintaining a hand full of razors. You only need to set the bevel one time, then just maintain it, unless you damage the edge.

If you hone on 1um flim with a piece of copy paper under, it will produce a very fine shaving edge.

Set the bevel on a King or any 1k, remove the 1k stria with 5um/4k film, then polish on 3um/8k and finish on 1um/14-16k or .3um 40-50k.

That will keep you shaving very well. Film is very aggressive and inexpensive and will produce an edge that will rival the finest stones.

If you want to buy good stones for the least amount of money, a King 1k, Norton 4/8 combo, a CKTG 400/1k diamond plate and quality Chrome Oxide is probably the cheapest way to go with a bullet proof progression that will last a life time. The whole thing will run you about $150.

The Norton lapping stone is rubbish.

Another recommendation for film if cheap is a concern. Works VERY well. Slow, annoying, sharp as all hell, but it works.

I recommend, if cheap is a concern, a dmt 600/1200 combo. 6 x 2. That's under 70 bones for all the honing needs in the world! Although I have a King, and have set bevels on it. They will take FOREVER. Seriously. The second coming of Jesus happens before the bevel is set on a razor with that thing. Cheap, yes? But lapping film is so unbelievably slow (think working through 6 Chinese 12k's of different grit), that to torment yourself with a King, you'll be honing a LONG time. Throw in a dmt bevel setter, you'll be right on your way. You can also keep pressure consistently light the entire time. Seriously. DMT and lapping film--honing on auto pilot.

If you do decide to go the film route, invest in a decent strop, and strop HEAVILY. Your face will thank you.

Which film, are you using?

A good Silicone Oxide and Aluminum Oxide, or Calcined Alumina film is very aggressive, (fast), last a long time and produces a fine, super straight edge.

Film is capable of producing a very keen edge, too keen, if .3um is used, but very comfortable with 1um and a paper backer.

If you are having that kind of problem, you are doing something wrong.

Neither is a King 1k slow, it is soft, but not slow. A 1k diamond plate can set a bevel but will leave a chippy edge and is not recommended as a bevel setter for a new honer.

My experience with film and the King 1k are not like yours.

Why are Norton flattening stones "rubbish". Not as flat as could be?
I can't say what the cutting agent for the film I've been using is but I've been happy with the results. I do find it's a bit "fussy". It needs to be kept moist or it slides off the glass tile, the .5u has suction tendancies that can add to the challenge and they to be trimmed to fit the tile properly (ragged edges mess with my ocd. ;-P). Not a big deal but soak and go seems like an upgrade. If I think I need a finisher above Dovo paste, I'll still use the 1u for now.
I really don't have anything bad to say about the film. It has served me well and for a new honer, I'd recommend it.

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The Norton flattening hone usually isn't flat and it is fairly soft and wear quickly and don't use them with any hard natural stone, I learned the hard way doing that and wore a groove in mine

So lap first and it's adequate for their stones?

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Yes, it is adequate for the Norton, and similar, synthetic hones as long as it has been lapped flat. It never was meant to be used on natural hones.

Well, first of all it is messy, they are not flat and do not stay flat and they are not all that fast.

A $35 400/1000 grit, diamond plate, is infinitely better, cleaner, quicker, no comparison to a messy, Norton lapping stone.

Cut your film with a paper cutter to size and use a 3x12 plate glass tile, lap it flat with a diamond plate and your film will not slip once squgeed to the glass plate.

You do have to use more water, use a squirt bottle and put your glass substrate on a stone holder over a plastic tray or cookie sheet to catch the excess water.

Some 1k wet/dry sandpaper will also set a bevel. There probably are people on the forum that just use sandpaper and film and hone razors very successfully

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Which film, are you using?

A good Silicone Oxide and Aluminum Oxide, or Calcined Alumina film is very aggressive, (fast), last a long time and produces a fine, super straight edge.

Film is capable of producing a very keen edge, too keen, if .3um is used, but very comfortable with 1um and a paper backer.

If you are having that kind of problem, you are doing something wrong.

Neither is a King 1k slow, it is soft, but not slow. A 1k diamond plate can set a bevel but will leave a chippy edge and is not recommended as a bevel setter for a new honer.

My experience with film and the King 1k are not like yours.

I will agree with you on the king 1k. I only say it's slow when in comparison to my eze lap diamond hone. I set bevels on the king 1k all the time. It leaves the edge in a nice place for the next hone whatever that is. Usually when setting a bevel on a diamond hone I always joint the edge and reset it on something else. Micro chips will haunt you with a DMT or other diamond hone..