Thread: Chosera 600

Originally Posted by JOB15

I use the Chosera range, from 1,5,10k.

The 6k never occurred to me until now.

For small chips I use the 1k with its slurry .
If I have some serious chips I use my Shapton 500k, works a treat..
Although now I want Chosera 6k

I could prob get along with a Chosera 1k with tomo slurry, but I wanted some quick work before it.

The Chosera 1k was the best money this rookie ever spent on honing, period. I love naturals and I'm obsessed with coticules, no shame there. But I see what the raves are about with this line.

The coticules I bought are all awesome in their own right, but having crisp, accurate, even bevels without deep scratches in 1/4 the time of the King 1k made my life about 700% easier. My experience so far has been the 1k has been an absolute joy to hone on. I'm just not as comfortable using bevel setting pressure, that's a personal thing ya know?

Last night I broke in my linen strop with a DMTC (what a treat on that cardboard! Illinois strops are actually really good!) and for the fun of it pulled out a beater Gold Dollar I tucked into a drawer. I thought, well, let's see if the mantra was right, that DMTCs can be too aggressive. They absolutely are. I did only a few laps and I saw chipping. The 1k took them out with a bit of pressure, but still, Gross! If I only had a Chosera 1k and not the 600, I'd rather take the extra time on the 1k to be honest, setting the bevel on heel with the side of the hone first then moving on to the flat plane. I got the 600 as a compromise. I'll probably stop by harbor freight and pick up a proper hacksaw with carbide blades to cut the stone to a preferred size. Pics to follow~!

I have had both the Chosera 600 and 800, also the 1k for several years and use them for repair work, they are both different, the 600 fairly aggressive without too much chipping, the 800 can be use in place of the 1k. But I have not use them in a while.

I do most repair work on Diamond plates, 140, 300, 400 and 1k, I do not do a full bevel set on diamonds, though. I bevel set razors that have been on diamonds with a Nubatama Ume 1k. The Ume 1k is very hard and fast, but leaves a shallow stria pattern, that a 2k or 4k will easily remove.

Which by the way the Nubatama 4k is a sweet, fast, soft-ish, 4k.

Either the 600 or 800 will improve repair speed, but to prevent chipping do not fully set the bevel with a 600, use the 800 or a 1k and just get close with the 600. Or joint the edge after the 600 and fully set with the 800 or 1k.

If you do a lot of repair work, they and diamond plates will come in handy, the 1k diamond sees a lot of steel in my shop.

I have been using a 2k for over a year or so, the Naniwa “Green Brick” and that is a game changer, it removes deep stria quickly, without leaving a chippy edge and makes the progression go much quicker. They are inexpensive, 50-60 dollars and at 2in thick will last a while.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

I have had both the Chosera 600 and 800, also the 1k for several years and use them for repair work, they are both different, the 600 fairly aggressive without too much chipping, the 800 can be use in place of the 1k. But I have not use them in a while.

I do most repair work on Diamond plates, 140, 300, 400 and 1k, I do not do a full bevel set on diamonds, though. I bevel set razors that have been on diamonds with a Nubatama Ume 1k. The Ume 1k is very hard and fast, but leaves a shallow stria pattern, that a 2k or 4k will easily remove.

Which by the way the Nubatama 4k is a sweet, fast, soft-ish, 4k.

Either the 600 or 800 will improve repair speed, but to prevent chipping do not fully set the bevel with a 600, use the 800 or a 1k and just get close with the 600. Or joint the edge after the 600 and fully set with the 800 or 1k.

If you do a lot of repair work, they and diamond plates will come in handy, the 1k diamond sees a lot of steel in my shop.

I have been using a 2k for over a year or so, the Naniwa “Green Brick” and that is a game changer, it removes deep stria quickly, without leaving a chippy edge and makes the progression go much quicker. They are inexpensive, 50-60 dollars and at 2in thick will last a while.

I will take this suggestion; I'm reading this as "outline the bevel on the 600 but finish it on the 1k." Thanks for the tip!

Yes, the goal of bevel setting, is to get the bevels in the correct bevel angle, (from spine to edge), to get them flat, and get them to meet, at the edge.

Do the first two, but don’t get them to meet, any aggressive low grit stone will cause chipping, because of the deep stria. So, don’t get them to meet, get them flat and close to meeting and seal the deal with a 1k. It will save you a lot of trouble.

Sometimes, you can get lucky and can get away with it, but when you don’t, it will cost you in time and frustration.

Originally Posted by J743

I'm just not as comfortable using bevel setting pressure, that's a personal thing ya know?

I would say use very little pressure .

The Chosera 1k with its own slurry (DMT Card, Green) requires little pressure and no circles to set a bevel .. That's in my experience

I have said this a few times in the past and Marty is making the point again

We really need to make a marked separation between "Edge Restoration" and "Bevel Setting" when talking about this..

It is very confusing for new honers..


Hint: you can also use Extra Tape or a steady hand and lift the spine slightly when doing Edge Restoration on lower grits.
This concentrates the deep stria to the very fin of the bevel and makes it much easier to remove when you get to the Bevel Setting stage on the 1k +/-

Not so, if you are setting a bevel after correction work, eg large chip removal. Not your garden variety honing, it is still repair work, not honing.

Yes, for just regular bevel setting a Chosera 1k will set a bevel just fine, with or without slurry.

To my recollection, the only razor that I encountered that ended up with a chippy edge off of the 600 was an older Hart razor. I have not seen any issue with excessive chipping on any other razor with the 600 and the edge is easily cleaned up on any decent 1k hone.

Regarding pressure during bevel setting, it's like a lot of other things. You have to adjust the pressure as you go along. If you have a large chip to remove, then you need to remove a lot of steel. As you get closer to finishing the bevel setting phase, then you gradually reduce the pressure. If you use minimal pressure during the entire process, then you are simply wasting time with no benefit to the final edge.

I received the 600, it's really great!

However, I also received a very problematic Clauss 6/8 that's giving me fits! I reset a bevel on another razor no problem, but this one is just crazy. 2.5 hours and nothing, nada, all polish and no bevel. It came with not much spine wear, but a bit of an uneven heel. I've tried 600, 1k, pressure, no pressure, this razor won't take an edge. I thought maybe the blade was warped, I tried a rolling x stroke. Nada, zilch.

This one puzzles me bad.

Are you saying that after 2.5 hours you still cannot see any bevel at all? If that is the case, then what is being polished?

Have you tried the marker test?

As usual, photos would be helpful.