Thread: Honing and the temperature of a stone

It is probably .5 mm thick at best, I will do that test with the cleaned out bits.

The stone is out, but it was amber colored and gooey. The box is dated 1912, if authentic I think glue would be fairly easy to come by. Plaster seems like it would be a more vintage method.

I have remove a lot of vintage stones from boxes and only encountered a few that were glued.

Most are “Glued” with slurry and swarf. Try tapping down on the end of the box, one end then the other, lite taps.

If it is a vintage stone, and it is glued, it is probably hide glue and water soluble. Soak it in water for a few minutes.

Originally Posted by 32t

I think it would be interesting to take that extra chunk of bbw and put it in a glass of vinegar to see how it reacted. Wood working sites say to use the vinegar to loosen joints. My concern would be how the acid would affect the stone.

The worst that would happen is that you would have a bunch of garnets rolling around the bottom of the glass!

Coticules are unaffected by mild acid. As a matter of fact, the acid test is the means for differentiating between a natural and a man-made coticule made from coticule dust. The synthetic coticule will bubble in reaction to acid while the natural stone will not.

Originally Posted by dinnermint

This was a crack pot idea while researching how to remove a stone that is glued to a box. Removing the stones in these methods has been done by people in the past.

Am I going to actually hone on a oven fresh stone? No, see the laziness comment above. Is this an insane theory? Ehh, depends on your definition of insane.

However, There is a wide reach of our forum. I'm sure those in Thailand are honing on warmer stones than me in the winter. Why does this matter? As I work with a company that has to deal in microns at times, I understand that small temperature changes can affect things significantly in certain situations. Maybe a 50 degree change one way or the other could influence a stone for better or worse depending on the requirements of the stone.

So the stone didn't make it out of the box completely? Oh no. I use hot water for stones or a hairdryer for things which can't get wet. Hot water also works really well for the naniwa stones if you want to seperate them from their stands. But keep it mainly on the bottom of the plastic part, not on the synthetic hone.

Let me clarify, the stone is 99.999% whole. Just a thin layer of bbw stayed on the bottom of the box. I started out doing cycles in hot water from my tap. There was significant glue on the edges of the hone, with some thin places so I could gauge how well the water was working. After three hours and gallons of water (don't like wasting too much water) there was no progress to the visible glue. So, after I ate and let the oven cool to what felt like 100ish deg F, I popped it in and let it warm up. Let me be extra clear, the heating element was NOT on. I did this because I didn't want too much heat going into the stone and the temp is iffy to control at best. I did 5,10,10 minute intervals to warm up the glue. If I had done an extra 10, I may have saved 100% of the stone. It took 10 minutes to sand off the glue and get the missing areas removed with 320 grit 3M pro paper. Here are some pictures.



Since Utopian reminded me about the acid test and man-made coticules, there'll be a little test with goo-gone on the remainder of the glue in the box and it's effect on the bbw and wood. Probably will be fine.

Hey How Was The Cheese & Bacon ??? No Really Nice Job Way To Put The Effort Into It,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Ty

Well it's a beautiful coti, I look forward to hearing the results.

Thanks guys, I was nervous that it may have been glued because the BBW was gone. It's intriguing because it looks significantly different from my current (1x4ish) bbw and my newer coti. I'm hoping I can make some time before the meet to try it out. Might have to wait until Saturday to EDIT:hone it out.

An interesting note about this stone. If you look reeeaaaaally carefully, you can notice a dark edge to the honing surface of the coti side. Especially in the top right corner of the last photo. When lapping, I noticed it was convexly dished as opposed to the typical concave. I will probably lap this completely flat, but will probably leave some color of the glue on the sides. Cause history reasons and I'm a dork.

Also, what is nearly impossible to photo, is the nearly holographic swirls on the face of the coti. It is hard to see by eye even. Will try day light.

When and where did you get that one?

Came in the mail yesterday from the bay. It seemed reasonably priced and I put a fairly high bid in. I was also fairly intoxicated, as I was on vacation with my friends from high school. No regrets lol.