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Thread: Naniwa 400 clarification

  1. #11
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve56 View Post
    Do yourself a favor and get the double thick Shapton Glass HR 500. It's considerably faster than either a 320 Shapton Pro or a 600 Chosera (I have both), and it's about the same fineness as the 600 Chosera. It will cut anything and the speed is nice when dealing with chips and geometry issues.

    Cheers, Steve
    Did you try the 320 Pro with a heavy slurry ? I found it much faster than the 500 GS & I found the pro's to need less regular flattening than the GS.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

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    Senior Member Steve56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by salazch View Post
    How long do those stones last?
    The double thick will last a good while, how long I can't really say because I haven't worn one out.

    Part of the trade off at coarse grits, when you're moving a lot of metal (chips, frowns, etc) is time. You can use a harder stone and take longer or you can use a softer stone that's faster and takes less time. What's best is kind of up to you.

    Cheers, Steve

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    Senior Member Steve56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onimaru55 View Post
    Did you try the 320 Pro with a heavy slurry ? I found it much faster than the 500 GS & I found the pro's to need less regular flattening than the GS.
    I've used the 320 with slurry from the 'brown biscuit', but still think that the SG 500 is as fast or faster. Part of the reason that it's faster is that with the 320, I really like to use the 600 Chosera or the SG 500 before the 1k stone, so there's an extra stone in the progression before 1k with the 320.

    The flattening part I agree with, the SG cut fast because they aren't as hard as Chosera or SP. Most stones used to move a lot of metal need flattening more often than ones that are just removing the last stone's striae, so flattening is just something you have to do more often to move a lot of metal. It's trading stone for time.

    Here's a humorous anecdote, when I first started honing straight razors, coming from high end kitchen knives, I wondered why SR folks had all these coarse stones. I used mostly a 5k and up to refresh knife edges and occasionally a 1k for little chips. Well, I found out. If your knife hone needs to cut faster you just bear down and throw the pressure to it. You can't push very hard on a straight because the edge will flex so you need coarser stones, pushing harder on a straight is not an option. Not being able to push very hard on a straight as compared to knives or tools is something every beginning honer (including me) seems to have to learn to the detriment of at least one razor.

    Cheers, Steve
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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve56 View Post
    I've used the 320 with slurry from the 'brown biscuit'
    I use a 140 grit Atoma to self slurry the 320 Pro. I find it even faster than the grey 220 GS I used to have.
    One thing the GS stones have all over the Pro's is they polish better.
    I never found them faster but didn't sharpen many knives. Total noob there. I use my KME
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    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

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    Senior Member Steve56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onimaru55 View Post
    I use a 140 grit Atoma to self slurry the 320 Pro. I find it even faster than the grey 220 GS I used to have.
    One thing the GS stones have all over the Pro's is they polish better.
    I never found them faster but didn't sharpen many knives. Total noob there. I use my KME
    We're all noobs Oz, we just like to pretend we're not.

    Cheers, Steve
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