Thread: Naniwa 400 clarification

Thanks for the info, that helps.
I'll probably go with a 600 for my razor restoration work. I like having something for removing lots of metal from knives so I don't have to use a diamond stone, and I was thinking of a 400 for knife work so I don't have to use my straight razor hones for that kind of work. My new hobby is restoring old knives. Think a 600 would work for that too?

I have a naniwa SP400 green hone . I find it a little to aggresive for me and what I do. I guess it's for those times when you need to get a big chip out of a blade.

For serious restoration I'm going as low as the Suehiro 320 (it's actually quite finer though, just for reference) with layers of tape on spine.
Or I might use something in the 800 grit.
With or without slurry.
It depends on how bad the bevel is, how much metal you want to remove, and in each case you make the appropriate choice. Unfortunately, it requires experience so that you won't remove too much metal, or end up using a far too fine stone and take a week for a single razor, the right stone for the minimal metal removal until the edge is restored "to perfection".

As for the stones, the chocera-professional I think they are called now, is a faster and longer lasting stone. The ceramic binder has some disadvantages, but performance-wise, most of us would agree that it's better. Hence the higher price.
Not that the classic/cheaper naniwa is a bad choice, both lines from the company have earned our respect.

A 600 could work for knives, of course it would be slower than a lower grit for material removal. I've been using a Crystilon for material removal and finishing on a hard Washita for my knives lately. The Chosera or Pro series will be much better than the Sharpening Series for knives IMO, as they are much harder.

Since your objective is to remove a lot of metal quickly when restoring knives, you might consider using various grits of Silicon Carbide wet/dry sandpaper. Get a piece of glass or granite to use as a backer for the paper.

Since SiC is harder than most other abrasives except Cubic Boron Nitride and diamond, it works quickly. It also has a particle shape that is great for metal removal.

I have the 400 grit Superstone. I have only used it when I had to remove a bad chip in the toe of a vintage razor. For razors, normally 1000 grit is as course as needed.

Sandpaper CAN be used, but it wears down quickly, when new a "1000 grit" piece cuts way too aggressively for 1000 grit and 2' later it gets quite finer and slower' too slow.
If it's the first time trying it on a tool that is of some worth and don't want some extra wear or scratches, I would advice against it.
If not, go for it. Although any coarse (from 400 grit or below, like the stone you mentioned that would perform consistently) sandpaper is way too coarse for honing any delicate tool, and in the long run, too expensive. Let alone that you need a flat surface, there is a chance it will deform depending the brand and you might ending up damaging the edge further instead of improving it.

Do yourself a favor and get the double thick Shapton Glass HR 500. It's considerably faster than either a 320 Shapton Pro or a 600 Chosera (I have both), and it's about the same fineness as the 600 Chosera. It will cut anything and the speed is nice when dealing with chips and geometry issues.

Cheers, Steve

Originally Posted by Steve56

Do yourself a favor and get the double thick Shapton Glass HR 500. It's considerably faster than either a 320 Shapton Pro or a 600 Chosera (I have both), and it's about the same fineness as the 600 Chosera. It will cut anything and the speed is nice when dealing with chips and geometry issues.

Cheers, Steve

How long do those stones last?

Originally Posted by salazch

How long do those stones last?

The double thick will last a good while, how long I can't really say because I haven't worn one out.

Part of the trade off at coarse grits, when you're moving a lot of metal (chips, frowns, etc) is time. You can use a harder stone and take longer or you can use a softer stone that's faster and takes less time. What's best is kind of up to you.

Cheers, Steve

Originally Posted by Steve56

Do yourself a favor and get the double thick Shapton Glass HR 500. It's considerably faster than either a 320 Shapton Pro or a 600 Chosera (I have both), and it's about the same fineness as the 600 Chosera. It will cut anything and the speed is nice when dealing with chips and geometry issues.

Cheers, Steve

Did you try the 320 Pro with a heavy slurry ? I found it much faster than the 500 GS & I found the pro's to need less regular flattening than the GS.