Thread: Arkansas

Originally Posted by DZEC

I don’t want to hijack the thread, but I do want to ask a question.

Full disclosure: I love my coticules and I get really good shaves from my razors using them, particularly with a recently acquired natural BBW-coticule combination stone.

I bevel set using a 1k, work through a Norton 4K/8K to coti progression when resetting a bevel and finish or refresh using a coti/Vermio or CrOx.

I am very happy with my edges, but this Arkansas discussion has activated my HAD, especially since the arks are not as astronomically priced as JNats.

I don’t NEED another hone, but I am curious about how a good Arkansas edge would compare to what I am getting with the stones I have. Please share your experience.

My only experience with a good coticule edge was on a Sheffield blade sharpened by an established hone mister. I did not like the edge so took it to my Black Ark and now the edge is excellent. YMMV

So, as you have read, in this and the thousands of other ark threads, there are a lot of variables with Arks and impossible to say about your razor and your shave. But generally, a proper Ark edge is unique, it is keen and comfortable, it is best described as a Feather edge after 2-3 shaves.

If you finished as you described 1,4,8k and stropped on Chrome Oxide, (using the coticule is going backwards IMO) a burnished ark would improve the edge.

You do not need a massive Ark to finish, a 6x2 is plenty of stone to finish on. You can even buy a vintage translucent, small ark or slip for around $20-30 on the Bay or much less at flea markets.

Some believe edges from vintage stones (Pike/Norton) produce better edges, hence the price.

The confusion comes from all the new sellers and naming of the different colored stones, (Marketing, or?) that you can not grit rate an Arkansas stone, and there is no standard between makers. If you could grit rate an ark, they produce a finish much higher than the rating would indicate on a synthetic stone.

You can find the specific gravity of a stone, but even that does not tell you what the stone is capable of, because how the stone face is finished will/can alter the finish on the steel.

So, buy a vintage Translucent Pike/Norton slip, lap it, and give it a try. It will be the best $20 you have spent, if you can hone a decent edge to get to the ark.

The uniqueness of the Washita is it is capable of bevel setting and finishing steel, a one hone stone, especially the No.1, Lilly White or Rosie Red. Washita’s (Norton exclusive) have not been mined for years (60-70’s), they did a limited run in the mid 90’s for a woodworking store and sold out immediately. Norton owns the only Washita mine.

With Blacks, Translucent and Washita’s, there are variations and for our purposes better performing stone even in grade, as there are with all naturals, Coticules, Slates and Jnats, so, not surprising some prefer vintage over newly mined.

You can find them in the wild, I bought 2 boxed about a year ago $20, and find them easily unboxed and filthy, for a couple bucks if you know what to look for.

I have some soaking, (have been soaking for over a year now) of the $2 variety, I check them and change the solution every couple month or when I think of it, until they stop releasing oil..

Originally Posted by PaulFLUS

Hey Mike, have you ever tried heating the detergent while you're soaking it, sort of simmering or maybe even boiling the stones? It seems like that would work the oil out faster / more thoroughly or something. It doesn't seem like you could damage the stone doing it that way. I have a small one that is sort of yellowish which may have been a hard white I thought about doing that with. I just haven't done it yet. Mainly I didn't want to stink up the kitchen with boiling detergent. My wife gets migraines from certain smells.

Yes...extremely hot tap water and detergent. Then I submerged it in lacquer thinner, for a few days, then gave it a hot scrubbin with detergent again. Smells a bit like gasoline, now.

My usual stone clean routine is a blast of hot water and quick soak in scalding hot water from my shop sink, to let the stone heat up. Then hose down with dollar store oven cleaner on a steel cookie sheet and let sit for 5-10 minutes. Scrub with a stiff brush or stainless-steel brush and rinse with hot water. Then long soak in Simple green, Awesome or Purple Power and water 50/50.

You will see the oil come off in the solution. When I change the solution, I scrub with stiff brush, hot water, and dish soap, then back in new solution. The stones will slime up as the oil comes to the surface.

I have tried soaking in alcohol, mineral spirits/ paint thinner and it does speed up the process but is pricier to change solution. Paint and lacquer thinner are crazy priced lately, $18-20 gallon. The color of the solution tells me when to change. I am trying to see if some of my new finds are Lilly Whites and how white I can get them. I have gotten some translucent pretty clear, or at least not smelling of rancid oil.

For lube I use Windex in a plastic lab wash squeeze bottle for coarse work on Washita, also for the 600 side of a Black or translucent and plain water and Smith’s or Ballistol for Washita finish or burnished side of Black or Translucent.

BTW those plastic lab squeeze wash bottles allow you to flood a stone or deliver a single drop easily and are a couple bucks online. Great control and stand up well to harsh cleaners. Way better than a spray bottle.

What do you all hone with on a washita and on a translucent.

I have heard washing up liquid from some but then others have said that causes nasty soap scum.

Others have said Ballistol, I don't know what that is or where to get it, I'm canadian.

I've also heard WD40 or glycerin, not sure where to get glycerin.

I am wondering if I could use Olive Oil, Canola Oil, Baby Oil even.

When I cook I have no trouble washing Olive oil or Canola of my pans so I imagine the stones should clean easily enough, I do wonder if a Washita is a bit too porous for cooking oil or baby oil though.

I don't have honing oil but I have the cooking oils, baby oil, wd40, 3in1, snow blower oil, and engine oil. I have washing up liquid too of course.

You can get Balistol at Amazon.ca if it’s in stock.

Honing oil is available at Canadian Tire.

You can find glycerin at the drug store.

For starting out I recommend Balistol or Glycerin as you can dilute these w/water to create a thinner medium, encourages experimentation and they both work well and clean up easily.
I've had similar results w/ Smiths honing solution, also able to be diluted w/water and cleans up easily.

Originally Posted by STF

What do you all hone with on a washita and on a translucent.

I have heard washing up liquid from some but then others have said that causes nasty soap scum.

Others have said Ballistol, I don't know what that is or where to get it, I'm canadian.

I've also heard WD40 or glycerin, not sure where to get glycerin.

I am wondering if I could use Olive Oil, Canola Oil, Baby Oil even.

When I cook I have no trouble washing Olive oil or Canola of my pans so I imagine the stones should clean easily enough, I do wonder if a Washita is a bit too porous for cooking oil or baby oil though.

I don't have honing oil but I have the cooking oils, baby oil, wd40, 3in1, snow blower oil, and engine oil. I have washing up liquid too of course.

I know one honer on here uses different oil weights in his honing process to some effect. I’ve only ever used simple baby oil. Baby oil is simply mineral oil with a splash of perfume. Easy clean up. Inexpensive. Avoid food grade oils as they can go rancid. Clean with Dawn or other oil dispersal detergent.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

...You do not need a massive Ark to finish, a 6x2 is plenty of stone to finish on...

In fact that tiny little stone of mine works great. I would love if it were bigger but I can get shaves where it feels like there's not even any whiskers there with it. I have been using hairs from my Jack Russell Terrier for HHT because they are more coarse than anyone else's in my house (besides the Rhodesian Ridgeback but his are too short) they are about an inch long and mostly white. I can hack off piece after piece with every stroke or split it down the middle depending on the angle I use all off that tiny stone.

There are actually times that I think a narrow stone is better. For instance if you have an uneven spine where the bevel is not always reaching evenly. This should actually help you then