Thread: A couple of quetions about hones

I should also mention that I have never used that slurry method I mentioned with the Nortons before. Again, no expert but I believe that they are aggressive enough already and I don't know how well that would work with them. I actually only do that on the giant gray block with limited strokes per solution and not with much weight on the blade.
I was mainly mentioning that to say be aware and maybe scrub them lightly with a nylon brush to remove it.

Originally Posted by outback

My only dislike, was the 12k edge. The edge from the synthetics, were a bit too crisp, for my skin. But I could go to a natural finisher, after the 12k, to make what my skin likes.

Now I just use the 1k chosera for bevel setting, and then a natural progression, to finish.

Have you tried, or have you heard of someone trying, to use a bit of natural slurry (e.g. Thuri slurry) right on the Naniwa 12K to "soften" the crispness of the finished Naniwa edge? (I'm relatively new to honing, so pardon my naiveté if this is senseless or common knowledge).

You can use natural slurry on high grit synthetic stone, but results will vary, because natural stones are of unknow grit and grit size. So, you will need to experiment.

Better to lap the 12k clean, joint the edge then do your finish laps. The problem with all the “Superstones” 12k included is they load up with hard swarf. When you hone on swarf it can microchip the edge. A micro chipped edge will shave harshly, it is a micro serrated edge.

I have not use a 12k in years, the Naniwia 8k Snow White is a much better stone and will leave a comparable finish or to jump to a natural.

A solid 12k edge stropped on Chromium Oxide is a nice edge.

"I like the idea of a Chosera/Naniwa progression but what with the Washita, Trans Ark and Diamond Plate I think I have spent enough on stones for now."

Since you don't want to purchase more stones at this time consider lapping film for the intermediate work. A 5µ, 3µ(4.5K, 8K) would work fine. a video showing the use is

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tADrQFcN_7g&t=19s

You have all the tools needed

In fact you are going to be hard pressed to beat the edges you can produce from them

So far the "Best" bevel setter by popular use is the Chosera/Pro 1k to be honest if you are not honing quite a few eBabies each week even it is a waste of money

Yes there are better systems, but it comes down to your usage, you are not going to really "Beat" your system now but you can get there faster and more consistently...

Your money your razors but you did ask and yes I have used them

Originally Posted by boz

"I like the idea of a Chosera/Naniwa progression but what with the Washita, Trans Ark and Diamond Plate I think I have spent enough on stones for now."

Since you don't want to purchase more stones at this time consider lapping film for the intermediate work. A 5µ, 3µ(4.5K, 8K) would work fine. a video showing the use is

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tADrQFcN_7g&t=19s

Another vote for lapping film. It's great for keeping your out the door costs down and really even for an ongoing thing it is pretty economical.And it's nice to not have to lap your honing surface. Just a little fidgety getting the film absolutely flat on the plate with no lint or dust or bubbles underneath, is all.

There are some guys who notice that the 5u film tends to slurry off a bit, though. Me, I go 9u to 3u to 1u and that works really well. The 1u film is even better than the 12k Naniwa as a great jumping off point for the .5u, .25u, .1u pasted balsa progression, if you are into that or think you might be some day.

I like TAP Plastics for buying acrylic. I use a 12" x 3" x 3/4" (or 1") piece for honing with film, and also for making pasted balsa strops. Currently a 1" thick x 12" x 3" piece is $14.28 and 3/4" thick is $10 because there is a $10 minimum. The thicker is worth it, anyhow. This stuff is pretty darn flat and you won't break it if you try. https://www.tapplastics.com/product/...cast_clear/510

I think it is worth saying that a lot of the answers to questions in this conversation will depend on what you're after. If you want good, shavable edges with a controllable, predictable outcome then, as Glen said, you already have what you need. The rest is just perfecting the process and maximizing what your equipment will do. If you are on a quest or if money is no object then by God you need one of these and one of those etc.
I would seriously try (if you don't already have them) a good lapping plate like a hard glazed ceramic floor tile and some SIC powder to lap with. It makes those Norton stones so much ...smoother is not exactly the word...maybe cleaner?...more consistent? I guess smooth h but not in terms of coarseness. It terms of eveness.

What is the difference between lapping and flattening? I thought they were the same thing.

Well hopefully both things happen at the same time. Generally they are used interchangeably. Flattening though means to get the surface completely flat without inclusions dips or bumps. Lapping technically means polishing. Conceivably you could lap something without flattening it and definitely vice versa. Most importantly for our purposes, just because something is flat does not mean it is lapped. The differences are a little bit fuzzy but it is really more a difference in connotation.

Originally Posted by outback

As fast as the Naniwas are, 1,5,8,12, was a perfect progression. Its fast, and very consistent. My only dislike, was the 12k edge. The edge from the synthetics, were a bit too crisp, for my skin. But I could go to a natural finisher, after the 12k, to make what my skin likes.

Now I just use the 1k chosera for bevel setting, and then a natural progression, to finish.

I need a bit of help here Mike.

I was of the understanding that where the two sides of a razor meet is called the edge or apex. The better that edge the sharper the razor is.

When you say crisp, I think sharp so I am having trouble understanding too crisp or sharp, is not as sharp as possible the ultimate goal?

I understand going to a natural afterwards, I want to go to my Arkie but I can't help thinking that taking a super sharp crisp edge and going to a natural to smooth it is actually another way of saying make it a bit blunter.

Surely an if an edge is very sharp and works, adding anything else would just diminish it?

You da man so I know I am wrong but I would appreciate some help to get my head around it.