Thread: What's your pick for repairing minor damaged edged

I am looking to get a lower grit stone to do some minor repair on some ebay specials that I want to practice honing on. I have a Norton 1K, but even this is too slow for what I want to do, and the 220 much too coarse than I would like to use.

I am thinking of getting a Shapton 500 glass stone, Naniwa chosera 400 or 600 or a 320 superstone.

I would appreciate any thoughts and suggestions.

Personally. I would get a dmt 600 or dmt 1200.

I just got the Shapton GS 500 about a month ago... awesome stone
I have had the Naniwa SS 400 for quite awhile ... good stone
I have had the DMT 325 for quite awhile ... good once you have lapped a few other stones with it...

One thing I would point out though is that these are more for real repair work, I just noticed you said MINOR but you want faster than the N1k

Hope that helps out

Originally Posted by Slartibartfast

Personally. I would get a dmt 600 or dmt 1200.

+1, I've got both of those too. I just used the 600 to clean up an chipped up edge followed by the Naniwa 1k to set the bevel this afternoon. I really like the 600 DMT for that sort of work.

I have both the DMT 1200 and the 325. I've used the 1200 on tons of razors, for anything from everyday bevel-setting to removing fairly substantial nicks.

I've only had to use the 325 for a couple of razors with major nicks. It works quickly but it leaves deep scratches that take a lot of subsequent work to remove.

So if it's one or the other I'd say the 1200. It's a fast metal-remover, yet the scratches it leaves can be removed in fairly short order with Belgian blue or equivalent.

My 325 has more than earned its keep what with lapping natural stones and sharpening kitchen knives, but I rarely if ever these days show it to a razor.

I like and use the DMT's and the Naniwa's. For a chip in the bevel, depending on the steel, I may use the 220, maybe the 400, or maybe the 1000, whatever the least I can get away with is....If I can do it with the 1k, then that's what I use....
You may like the Naniwa SS 400

I also got frustrated with the N1K.

I love a coticule for refining/finishing, and now I've gone to it for repairing/bevel setting.

Work up a heavy slurry. Do half strokes. When the slurry resembles curdled cream, that stone will work through steel without chipping. Much faster than anything else I've tried. Once the bevel looks smooth, use Bart's unicot method.

Honestly, I'm thinking about selling every other stone I have and investing in coticules.

Here is a vote for the Shapton GS 500. I use it for repair and it works well. As soon as the chip is gone I switch to the 1K and go from there. The GS 500 also works well for your kitchen knives. I find the DMT's are too rough for my blades and I don't use them any more.

bj

Don't be afraid to use the 220 . When I need to restore the edge bevel I always start with the 1k , which usually gets the job done . But some razors are harder than others , so if I'm not getting anywhere on the 1k I go to the 220 . When you use the 220 check the edge often , because you don't want to over do it , and don't use more pressure than you need to keep the edge in contact with the hone . The 220 can remove alot of steel fast , although I'm working on a Torrey , right now that's standing up to the 220 .

I use the DMT 1200 most of the time but do go to the DMT 325 occasionally. Once I have the chip nearly removed, I go to the GS 500, so I can finish taking the chip out and start smoothing the edge. From there, it is up through the normal progression.
One thing to remember about using the DMT's is to put 1 drop of dish soap on the surface and work it in with the water. It breaks the surface tension and allows the blade to move smoothly across the plate.
Pictures of some of your chips would be nice also. If we can see what you are up against, maybe we could make some specific recommendations.

Enjoy!

Ray