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Thread: Hone troubles
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12-17-2009, 05:16 AM #21
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Thanked: 96The slurry seems to be sticking in the slot pretty well but that will probably change as I add water to use the stone. I was wondering if any one here might know what they use to hold the grit in synthetics together. If I lapped the Jnat again and allowed the slurry to dry then mix it with the adhesive they use in other hones and then put it into the slot and allowed it to dry it just might solve my problem and as soon as I got wore down to the vein again I could just re-do it, any thoughts? Thanks.
-Jason
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jasongreat For This Useful Post:
alx (05-30-2010)
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12-17-2009, 05:30 AM #22
Any chance you can tell how deep the inclusion goes ? Maybe lap past it ?
Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.
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alx (05-30-2010)
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12-17-2009, 07:27 AM #23
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Thanked: 96Jimmy I cant tell how far it goes down but it looks to be going diagonally, either that or I have already gotten past it(scratching it with a sharp nail) but I am not so sure. I dont want to end up lapping and lapping till I end with a barber sized hone. But I do apprecciate the positive vibe.
OS the inclusion seems to be heading away from the side I lapped although there seems to be a different(yellowish) inclusion in spots on the side I lapped. I emailed the seller and he said that he tested it before selling and he said he didnt find the inclusion to be any harder but he did entertain the thought that he might have missed it. He said to keep playing and learning with it to make sure it wont work, he also suggested using a dentist pick to scratch the inclusion below the surface as Alx has suggested. To my amazement he also said that he would replace it if it ended up being more than my lack of skill with a Jnat. He also said that is one of the fun things about Jnats is learning how to work with the stone, I dont know about that though i'd rather have one not causing concern. To top it all off he said that he could care less about the stamps which really surprised me, he'll swap it if I pay postage. So I guess i'll keep trying it a little longer and see what happens.
Thanks again for everyones help.
Is there any forum members in Utah that have experience honing on Jnats that maybe I could swing by and see if it is just me or if it really is the stone?
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alx (05-30-2010)
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12-17-2009, 08:38 AM #24
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Thanked: 96OLD_SCHOOL;508452]The question is, what did he use when testing. The large majority of people selling Japanese naturals as razor hones, are woodworkers and knife guys, who only test with their tools, and not with actual razors and a shave.
It's good that he has left you with the option of a return.
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alx (05-30-2010)
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12-17-2009, 12:18 PM #25
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Thanked: 2591
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alx (05-30-2010)
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12-17-2009, 02:19 PM #26
I would be posting after returning from the post office having mailed the stone back. Take the offer, you might get a better stone and certainly one that he will select more carefully.
Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.
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alx (05-30-2010)
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12-17-2009, 06:30 PM #27
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Thanked: 96I am taking the offer, i am going to play with it for a lttle bit longer to make sure that I didnt blame the rock for my honing inabilities if it still isnt great I will return it. I am not as sure as you guys that I would get a great stone in return. I am sure it wouldnt have any inclusions in the face of it but it could have problems too. If all it will take to use this stone is scratching the inclusion down a bit before use, I think I can manage. A bird in the hand is better than one in the bush. If I do come to the conclusion it is unuseable it will be returned.
Edit: My little experiment looks like it might work. The dip I scratched in the inclusion and then filled back up with slurry to see what would happen looks to be hardening and sticking well. I tried to see if I could easily chip it out with a fingernail today and it is stuck in there pretty good but it did shrink a little so I am going to give it one more little lap to get some slurry to top it off. I dont know how the dry and hardened slurry will react with water getting added back into the equation when honing or lapping, but i'll see.
update: I will need a binder(resin), as soon as water was added the slurry repair disappeared. I think I will try dried slurry mixed with a little epoxy, just enough to get it to bind together.Last edited by Jasongreat; 12-17-2009 at 07:57 PM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jasongreat For This Useful Post:
alx (05-30-2010)