Thread: Stop what you are doing and go buy Naniwas

Originally Posted by holli4pirating

I have to say, I'll probably break down and buy the 3k at some point too... Don't let my current 1-5-8 platform fool you

This morning I sold a DE and used the $ to buy a Naniwa 3k. We'll see how it works.

Originally Posted by Basset

This morning I sold a DE and used the $ to buy a Naniwa 3k. We'll see how it works.

I knew DE's had to have some use; they can be pawned off to others for useful equipment!

;-p

I have to agree with this one. Naniwa's are great. I like them so much, I bought the entire line. Fast and Soft. They've really become my workhorse hones, I finish with an Escher or Nakayama, depending on how I feel, and maybe a few laps on the old wool felt with .50 diamond...It really gives you a wicked edge....

Well...I've been convinced! I plan on getting the Chosera 1k, 3k, 5k set since there is a bit of a savings with the option to fill in the missing grits in the future. I especially want to replace my King 1k since it's very old and does not seem to cut the way it used to, even after lapping. I do have a Norton 4/8 and figured I could just use the 8k in the progression and then finish off on my Escher. Sound good?

~Matt

JimmyHAD: be sure to let us know how the 0.25 spray behaves on the felt--is it still relatively smooth? I'm really curious about it (tough beard & all), but wondering if the potential irritation would be worth it.

I wish I didn't click on this thread. This about the only AD haven't HAD

Originally Posted by Basset

I have the Nani 1k, 5k, 8k, and 12k

1. I do like to restore some antique store finds, which means serious bevel setting. Is it worthwhile to add the 3k?

2. I know a lot of folks like the Shapton 16k. Would that add that much for someone coming off at Nani 12k? Right now I finish with the Nani 12k, then go to CrOx pasted balsa before webbing and latigo (sometimes finishing with horse). Is there any value in inserting the Shapton 16k in there?

I was actually thinking about that same combo. Plus addition of 2k or 3k. Just can't decide. So I'll hold off until then.

Someone said that switching from multiple brands can be detrimental due to different grits. One would have to do more work and would result in removing more material on hone and razor.

As a n00b I'll play with the Norton's for now...

Yeah, this thread has sparked off HAD for me (or at least kicked it up a gear). Now I'm debating shelling out on a full set of Naniwas from SRD, or sticking with my original plan to just buy a coti and slurry and use that. Or I could buy a Norton 4/8 and a cheap J-Nat...

Oh dear, I see a lot of my student loan going on hones very quickly.

EDIT: Can someone tell me if I'm likely to ever need the Naniwa 220 or 400 stones? Just realised buying the stones individually from SRD and missing those two out makes it cheaper, which is good for me since I'm nearly a pauper from my various ADs.

Originally Posted by mosley59

Yeah, this thread has sparked off HAD for me (or at least kicked it up a gear). Now I'm debating shelling out on a full set of Naniwas from SRD, or sticking with my original plan to just buy a coti and slurry and use that. Or I could buy a Norton 4/8 and a cheap J-Nat...

Oh dear, I see a lot of my student loan going on hones very quickly.

EDIT: Can someone tell me if I'm likely to ever need the Naniwa 220 or 400 stones? Just realised buying the stones individually from SRD and missing those two out makes it cheaper, which is good for me since I'm nearly a pauper from my various ADs.

According to this it's not necessary but it's suggested you pick one or the other ( click on FAQS ). They've an interesting set up as far as combination of stones suggested. Anyway here's a brief description:

Available in the following Grits
220 Extra Coarse Grit - This grit is excellent for establishing a new bevel angle on a tool or knife. We also recommend it for extremely dull or nicked blades. This sharpens very quickly.

400 Coarse Grit - This is a coarse stone that is about as coarse as you’ll need if you never have an edge that is too dull or damaged. This stone is not necessary if you have the 220 grit.

1000 Medium Grit - This stone is very popular grit because it is really starts to refine the edge. This stone refines the edge after using the 220 or the 400. If your edge isn’t very worn, you don’t need to start any more coarse than this.

2000 Fine Grit - This is fine enough for many applications. In the kitchen, this stone will leave your knife with an edge better than most factory edges. At this level, this stone is considerably finer than any stones marked "fine" available in stores.

3000 Extra Fine Grit - This is an good final stone. Many people will use this after the 1000 grit stone. This stone is fine enough to be used prior to the 8000 grit stone.

5000 Very Fine Grit - This is a good final grit for many tools and knives. This is stone is works wonderfully well after you've used the 1000 grit. This stone is also fine enough to be a good stone prior to the 12,000 grit.

8000 Extremely Fine Grit - This stone is extremely fine. This is a wonderful final stage for most knives or tool edges. We recommend using this after the 2000 grit.

12,000 Mirror Polish Grit - If you want a truly superb edge, this grit is so fine that your edge will shine like a mirror. After using this stone, the edge will not appear to have any grit marks at all.


I have a 220 but I've never needed it for major repair. I've only used 1/4/8k Norton. I reckon it would depend on what you're going to do: you have to ask yourself if you're going to restore several razors, or have few for yourself, will you be offering honing services...etc...In my case should I decide to pursue Supers-probably only need 1/5/8/12 ( 12k maybe overkill perhaps ). But for those who have HAD there's no such thing as overkill

I've been thinking about this for some time now. There's so many choices mate

Originally Posted by PA23-250

JimmyHAD: be sure to let us know how the 0.25 spray behaves on the felt--is it still relatively smooth? I'm really curious about it (tough beard & all), but wondering if the potential irritation would be worth it.

I haven't bought it yet and probably won't for the foreseeable future. I won't buy it alone but will wait until I add it to a larger order to save on shipping. I am extravagant in some ways and frugal in others.

I will tell you this .... early on I bought a Tony Miller 4 sided paddle with the diamond pastes. I found the pastes made my edges feel harsh and I quit using them immediately. Fast forward a couple of years and I tried them again both on the fore mentioned paddle and on balsa. I must have learned something in the interim because they made edges scary sharp and didn't cause the irritation that I had experienced before.

I don't use diamond paste or spray as a rule because I like to see how sharp I can get off of rock alone and I don't particularly like 'scary sharp' but if you want scary sharp paste or spray will get an already sharp edge 'there' IME. I think the number of strokes and the weight of the blade only will avoid the harshness. I can't suggest a specific number because, as with all things in honing, it depends.

Although I don't play golf I think about a progression of stones the same way as clubs

I want the whole bag full of clubs LOL

Naniwa SS/ 400-1k-3k-5k-8k-10k-12k
Shapton GS/ 500-1k-2k-4k-6k-8k-16k-30k

Heck I use them all I just use each one less

Also whoever was asking about going to a 16k Shapton after the 12k Naniwa I haven't ever thought about using it or the 30k...

The other thing I have noticed is I tend to stay away from harsher Diamond sprays/pastes after the Naniwas, and use the softer CrOx and CeOx...