Thread: digging out lines natural stone-filling?

Originally Posted by DrNaka

I will recommend Cyanoacrylate adhesives.
They are sold as brand names of Loctite (sp?), Krazy Glue, Super Glue etc.

Cyanoacrylate - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I use it for mending small cracks in Jnats.
They are also good to fill in some Su of a nearly Su-less Suita.
Or if you dig a 針 "needle" a small toxic inclusion.

But if your digged line is broad and deep you may not fill it all. But still it will prevent the water to penetrate under the surface layer.

Apply the adhesive 2 or 3 times to be sure it has covered all vertical sides.

Dr Naka, thanks for responding.

You can see my stone in my message above. The line
is deep, but de line is not broad.

Dr Naka, what do you think about his idea?
to create a lot of slurry with a tomonagura and let it
dry. After drying I could mix the slurry powder with the
super glue and fill the gap?

This way the closed gap will also have the colour of the
stone because the gap is filled with the particles of the stone
itself. Also the feeling(while sharpening on the spot of the old line)
will be more the same.

What do you think?

Sharpman

Originally Posted by SharpMan

Dr Naka, what do you think about his idea?
to create a lot of slurry with a tomonagura and let it
dry. After drying I could mix the slurry powder with the
super glue and fill the gap?

This way the closed gap will also have the colour of the
stone because the gap is filled with the particles of the stone
itself. Also the feeling(while sharpening on the spot of the old line)
will be more the same.

What do you think?

Sharpman

I never dispersed fine powder into super glue.
The hardening process of cyanoacrylate is ion polymerization so the fine powder may contain ionic catalyst which makes hardening quicker. So good luck on it.

I think it is very difficult to disperse fine powder into super glue too.

Super glue is transparent so if the line is not broad
it will blend good without the fine powder.

The possible problem I see with using the super glue and mixing the particles is the quick drying and difficulty in filling the cracks with the added material. FWIW, I know that Ardennes Coticule uses some for of , I think it is beeswax (?) impregnated with powder from the same source to fill voids in BBWs. I have one so treated and with a few years of use it is holding up well. You might email Rob at Ardennes and inquire as to what their method is.

Originally Posted by SharpMan

I might end up buying that stone or the chosera 1000 grit.
The 800 chosera reminds me too much of the 800 SS. Same colour.

I have the 600 and 800 Choseras. I cannot directly compare the Chosera 800 to the SS 800, because I didn't even know about the SS version, but in my opinion the Chosera is an excellent hone. I am happy with it and certainly would not describe it as muddy.

I have a technique for filling in cracks in stones. It was given to me by the guys at Ardennes, The Coticule place. I used to sell them. You need a small piece of stone, like a slurry. This is why this technique works so well with Cotis. Slurrys are abundant.
You need to file the slurry stone into powder. Use a file, hand bastard. The stone being repaired needs to be heated, either in an oven or a microwave. Once the stone is hot, you rub beeswax over the crack, and fill it in with your grated slurry powder. Force it in with a small putty knife. Once the stone cools, you can lapp it flat. I've done this with Coticules

I really wouldn't mess with a nice big JNat like that for one little crack. I also think the cracks make them look cool and wouldn't mind them if they didn't affect honing...they're not Naniwa SS 12K's, after all.

Sharpman
I would recommend doing nothing at all, and using the stone in its natural state and to learn to appreciate it for what it is and what it can do to a blade. You will not be able to dig very deeply without widening the the inclusion and if you do, and it does, you will change the character of the surface of the stone. I seriously doubt that you are going to improve the performance of the stone. If I may quote myself, and I admit, I do ramble,

"A few thoughts on what not to do to your toishi has to begin with the admittance that anything and everything that we do to or with our natural Japanese sharpening stones is affecting them in some way that is totally new and unique to the stone. I mean just think of it, for untold
millions of years, these poor slabs of stone were just sleeping deep within the earth, protected and nourished by an environment of slow change, constant but even pressure and temperature, and familiar surroundings. Then one day they are cut out of the womb, hauled up into the bright light and handled by men and machinery and bound up for foreign lands." Alx