Thread: Dedicated Bevel Setting ....

Well that is the end of that! I am going to pull the trigger on a Chosera 1k. I have a Shapton 1K it does the job but has a very sloppy feel to it, if that makes sense.

Thanks for the post Glen it really just hit me that my bevels, while adequate, just do not meet the high standards that I have come to expect from the rest of my progression.

Take Care,
Richard

I guess it doesn't make sense to me. Which Shapton 1k do you have?

I don't have the Chosera 1k, but I've got the 600 and 800 and really like the way they are more aggressive but do not leave deep scratches, making it easy to move up to, and quickly past, a 1k hone.

I have the standard Shapton 1K glass not the pro. I am not getting much cutting action for what I would think a 1K should be. I have watched the progress with a 30X loupe and it is very slow.

R

I'm surprised to hear that. I have the same hone and I find it's a very fast cutter, certainly on a par with the Chosera 1k.

The only thing I've noticed is it tends to glaze slightly faster than the Chosera but other than that it's a great stone I've found.

If I had to give away all my stones I'd keep the 1/4/8/16k Shaptons and my J-Nat. With that set up I can get a great edge on pretty much anything!

How recently did you lap your Shapton?

Originally Posted by riooso

I have the standard Shapton 1K glass not the pro. I am not getting much cutting action for what I would think a 1K should be. I have watched the progress with a 30X loupe and it is very slow.

R

A Shapton Glass Stone and a Shapton Professional are two completely different animals...

The Chosera will work better than the Glass Stone, but at the same time, the Professional will take the Glass Stone outside and teach it a lesson or three.


Here's a suggestion you might try. I've not ever done it with a Glass Stone since I reckon they're a lost cause, but it's a trick that can usually coax increased performance out of any stone. When I bother to give the Glass Stones another going over, I'll give this a try to see what happens myself, I don't expect anything different to what is described below.

Take a diamond plate of any size, a scotchbrite pad, a piece of wet and dry sandpaper, anything that you can scrub the Glass Stone with without leaving anything behind. Not another stone like a nagura please unless you know it's of the same or finer grit than the stone it's being used on.

Scrub the surface of the stone, focusing most of those areas that you don't use when sharpening. Make sure there's at least a film of water on the stone, not standing water. Create a thin slurry on the stone and use that to do the work.

Keep the slurry on the stone, work it around as much as you can and try to maintain consistency by adding only a little water at a time. Water on the blade from a rinse is usually enough to maintain the slurry. If the slurry goes black, good. If the slurry starts to create sticky areas, then work the liquid slurry into those areas to break them up and back off the pressure a little.

You're not aiming for mud like what comes out of a King stone or similar, just an artificially created slurry like watered down milk. It should speed things up without any detrimental side effects and allow you to at least get some use from the Glass Stone, and buying yourself some time to at least try something else (if possible) before you need to replace it.

The abrasive in the Glass Stones is good stuff, the problem is the binder which (I think) holds onto the abrasive for a little longer than what is good for it. Get some of that good abrasive out of the binder and make it do some useful work, and you might be pleasantly surprised.

If no good comes of it, hey, it didn't cost you anything but a little time.

Good luck, and do please let us know how it works out if you try it.

Stu.

It's funny how personal preference plays such a big part in our sport. I have used the Shapton on glass 1K to set bevels on around 500 razors and it works well. On the other hand, I am not a fan of the pro series at all. I have used them and they are OK, but I would prefer the glass stones over them. At the end of the day, I continue to use my Chosera 1K because it gives me the results I prefer with less abrasion than some of the more aggressive stones.

I will be trying a couple of new 1K's soon so who knows.........

Have fun,

Lynn

Originally Posted by Schtoo

A Shapton Glass Stone and a Shapton Professional are two completely different animals...

The Chosera will work better than the Glass Stone, but at the same time, the Professional will take the Glass Stone outside and teach it a lesson or three.


Here's a suggestion you might try. I've not ever done it with a Glass Stone since I reckon they're a lost cause, but it's a trick that can usually coax increased performance out of any stone. When I bother to give the Glass Stones another going over, I'll give this a try to see what happens myself, I don't expect anything different to what is described below.

Take a diamond plate of any size, a scotchbrite pad, a piece of wet and dry sandpaper, anything that you can scrub the Glass Stone with without leaving anything behind. Not another stone like a nagura please unless you know it's of the same or finer grit than the stone it's being used on.

Scrub the surface of the stone, focusing most of those areas that you don't use when sharpening. Make sure there's at least a film of water on the stone, not standing water. Create a thin slurry on the stone and use that to do the work.

Keep the slurry on the stone, work it around as much as you can and try to maintain consistency by adding only a little water at a time. Water on the blade from a rinse is usually enough to maintain the slurry. If the slurry goes black, good. If the slurry starts to create sticky areas, then work the liquid slurry into those areas to break them up and back off the pressure a little.

You're not aiming for mud like what comes out of a King stone or similar, just an artificially created slurry like watered down milk. It should speed things up without any detrimental side effects and allow you to at least get some use from the Glass Stone, and buying yourself some time to at least try something else (if possible) before you need to replace it.

The abrasive in the Glass Stones is good stuff, the problem is the binder which (I think) holds onto the abrasive for a little longer than what is good for it. Get some of that good abrasive out of the binder and make it do some useful work, and you might be pleasantly surprised.

If no good comes of it, hey, it didn't cost you anything but a little time.

Good luck, and do please let us know how it works out if you try it.

Stu.

Yeah we have been using that trick on the Nortons, Naniwas, Shapton, Kings even the Chosera but we don't concentrate on the parts we don't use, we pretty much try and keep the hones as flat as possible. Slurry has been used quite a few different ways some to increase cutting power some to impart smoothness... In fact just about every Stone / Hone has been worked using various slurries.... Heck we even had some guys using a Spyderco UF with Diamond and CrOx...

One thing you are going to have to learn with razors is Sharpness is only half the battle, with Razors you are going to drag that sharp blade across your face so Smoothness becomes quite important... Now with a ton of practice the two will come together for you...
There have been many Knife and Tool guys with the same attitude that you have right now, many become quite good at straight razor honing,,, many don't get it...

Thanks for the tricks. I will try all the above.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Shapton GS 1k Fast, smooth cutter leaves no deep scratches, but not a hone that I would look at for a dedicated bevel setter, I look at this hone as part of the Shapton system....

Can you please elaborate? If you are alluding to the idea that the GS 1k does not set bevels fast, I disagree, and if you are alluding to the idea that the GS 1k should be used only within the so-called "Shapton" system, I also disagree. So could you please clarify...

Gark -- all this talk about bevel setting... Now I have to
buy another hone. I saw this 2K hone and HAD to have
it:
Naniwa Aotoshi 2k Green Brick

Months ago I posted a note on my Green Monster (CrOx on Balsa)
and when I saw this green brick I had to go for it. Other Razor forums
mention it with mixed reviews. But I want something to that does
not have the gritty gravel feeling of my Norton 1K yet has enough
tooth to refresh a bevel that does not need to be reset ().
Since I also have a block full of kitchen knives that will be happy
to visit this brick I pulled the trigger. I will get back with an opinion
in a couple months after I have used it a bit.


Green Brick, Green Brick Of Joy, Aotoshi 2k Green Brick

EDIT:
Sorry for being slightly off subject. I guess I will
have to dedicate my new green brick to bevel setting
or at least the process of setting a bevel and report
back on topic.

I would comment that at or about 1K sharpening and
edge shaping makes a big change and becomes honing
and polishing. A lot depends on the steel and the hones.
So one might consider three processes:

• Sharpening/ Bevel setting
• Honing
• Stropping.