Thread: Estimating bbw/coticule grits

There are some really pretty bbw/coti's out there. The main reservation for me about purchasing one is not knowing how to use it effectively. I understand that there is a variance in the natural stones, but I have three questions that have probably been asked many times...

1. Is it possible to establish an approximate grit for the stones?

2. Can any comparisons be made to the norton stones. Ie: bbw = 8k norton (just an example)

3. How would I use them with the stones I already have. Where would i put them in the pecking order.

I understand that these stones may be a luxury...the stone I have work very well. I would just like to get a better understanding of these beauties.

What stones do you already have?

Norton 220/1k, 4k/8k, C12

Having a Chinese 12 K you don't really need a coticule nor a BBW. Coticule is estiamated at10-12 K, the BBW at 4-6 K. If tis all in the srp wiki: Belgian Hones - Straight Razor Place Wiki

Hi!
I think that comparing the synthetic and natural stones are not quite correct ...
With regard to grain size:
BBW - approximately 4000 Grit;
Coticule - 6000 -8000
Data from the site Ardennes Coticule - natural sharpening stones from Vielsalm Belgium.

Regards,
Alexander

If you just "want" a Coti, I would suggest something that is rated as a good finisher, something hard and slow, as you have all the rest in good order.

Fierce30rus, Ardennes Coticule may not use the same grit standard or just measured the grit in their own way. A lot of experienced members have compared these stones to well known synthetics and I would put more trust in their estimations.

I agree with Kees that you don't need a Coticule. If you do get one it may shorten the time required on the Guangxi or be fine enough to replace it.

Thanks for your responses fellas. It has been informative and helpful. okay, so since the coti may be near/equal to the C12...Would it be a wiser use of funds to just go towards the higher grit Shapton hones such as a 16k or even a 30k?

30k's are pricey...as are a lot of the natural stones. What makes them worth it? Wouldn't the ultimate goal be to move towards the sharpest, smoothest shave? Is it really just a matter of preference?

Do the Japanese stones move to a higher grit than the Belgium stones?

For those of you with experience...would you prefer your cotis or the higher grit like a 30k? I have heard that the 16k can be "harsh."

So I did some reading on the wiki. I have a better understanding now of the different stones. I think that a escher/charnley forest that is above the 12k may be my next step.

Why do I get the impression that you are talking about "ADDING" these finishers instead of replacing finishers..

The PHIG is a Finisher
Most Select Grade Coticules are finishers
A Shapton 16k and 30k is another system (these don't play well with other systems IME)
the Naniwa 12k is another
so are the Eschers, Japanese, Thuringens and Charnleys..

Also one thing you need to test and make sure of is that you are first off getting the most out of the Norton set before even moving to any finisher... Try honing and shaving a few razors just using the Norton's and Linen/Leather if that isn't comfortable and smooth then more finishers are not going to help all that much anyway....

Now I realize that some people feel they are getting some "UberComboFinish" by combining these things but I personally I haven't found that to be the case... I would very slowly work through one finisher until you have maxed that out, then move to another and do the same there.... You will tend to gravitate to the one that feels the best on your face, with your razors... JMHO



PHIG = Peoples Hone of Indeterminate Grit ie: the Chinese 12k that we actually have no clue what grit it really is