Thread: Chinese Hone

Originally Posted by Zelenbakh

I agree with you. For hobbyist 12K is Ok. It's fun, plus it makes good finishing work. For professional honemeister progression of artificial stones is needed. I noticed, that some of them absolutely don't use natural stones. Even Belgians. I thing it is because with artificial stones everything is clear, every grit. And every coti or arkansas has it's character, which is not for professionals.

I think you are reading something, someplace, very very wrong...

I am trying to think of anyone that I consider a Pro that doesn't use a myriad of stones,,,
Most of us (not all) do set the bevel on a 1k synthetic of some type, but after that there are many different directions to a "shave ready" edge..
You might notice that most of my posts tend to make a solid point that there really is no best stone, hone, or finisher out there,,,, there are many great hones.. Ultimately it comes down to the hands, and the razor in them...

Originally Posted by gssixgun

I think you are reading something, someplace, very very wrong...

I am trying to think of anyone that I consider a Pro that doesn't use a myriad of stones,,,
Most of us (not all) do set the bevel on a 1k synthetic of some type, but after that there are many different directions to a "shave ready" edge..
You might notice that most of my posts tend to make a solid point that there really is no best stone, hone, or finisher out there,,,, there are many great hones.. Ultimately it comes down to the hands, and the razor in them...

Yes, I agree with you, there is no stone No.1 in the world. Setting of the bevel is also clear question, majority use 1K , others 1.2K or 2K. Professional honemeisters have many good beautiful stones. But! Use mostly artificial. I know very well two professional honemeisters. Both work with artificial stones. Even their progression is shorter than mine. Although for me honing is a hobby, I hone 25-30 razors per year.

I have never used a PHIG but have read alot about them, and seen many pictures of them. I appreciate there is significant diversity amongst them, but has anyone tried enough to know what a 'good one' is like AND tried an Escher or two? I'm asking as I'd like to know what the difference is like, ignoring anything to do with the number of laps required.

I have Escher and two PHIG. I use Escher for touch ups. I have very uncomfortable Escher, it is thin ( around 30 mm) and very awkward on my palm. Once I cut my finger because of it's thinness. It is better than Chinese, but more and more often I turn to PHIG. It is more comfortable to work with : good size 6' x 2' x 1', good cutting. Working extra 5 minutes does not frighten me. Very good understanding, that you can make the same work with a stone, that is several times cheaper than Escher. Second PHIG I don't use at all, it is not good.

Originally Posted by Scipio

I have never used a PHIG but have read alot about them, and seen many pictures of them. I appreciate there is significant diversity amongst them, but has anyone tried enough to know what a 'good one' is like AND tried an Escher or two? I'm asking as I'd like to know what the difference is like, ignoring anything to do with the number of laps required.

Yes, I have, it took me 4 different PHIG's before I found the one that I kept,,

The slurry and the honing action is very very similar to a good Thuringen it almost feels like you are honing on Talcum Powder rather then a stone...

The difference is in the feel of the stone with just plain water, the Escher's are just s m o o t h e r feeling... But they are smoother feeling than most stones with just plain water...

Originally Posted by Zelenbakh

No need for DMT, lapping is easily done by sandpaper. On a thick pieсe of glass you put sandpaper and fix it with scotch, then start lapping. You will need 3 pieces of sandpaper; 600-800-1200. Result is excellent, your stone becomes even ft a price of 3 pieces of sandpaper. I did it myself.
P.S. If you managed to get a very bad stone, use forth piece of sandpaper - 400 grit.

This does qualify as a worthy lapping solution.
If you need the 400 grit you now need 600-800-1200
all over again so start with it or perhaps 220,400, etc.
Since serious lapping for flat is a one time deal do it correctly
the first time. I would go so far as to mark the bottom
with a marker and to lap one side flat so you have a "narrow"
hone for the smiling or frowning blade that wants
a narrow hone to facilitate "interesting hone strokes".

Once it is flat same as any hone find a way to keep it
flat knowing that a mild belly on the final hone
is not a bad thing on a final finisher.

I lapped my two double sided hones and my PHIG using just wet and dry sandpaper. It may have been more work, but it is certainly a cheap way to do it for the non pro hobby honer.


Mick

[QUOTE=niftyshaving;773774]This does qualify as a worthy lapping solution.
If you need the 400 grit you now need 600-800-1200


I wrote that 400 grit can be used only with very bad stone, the one, which has almost no form.
As for progression 600-800-1200, it is really what one need for lapping. Sandpaper is quickly clogged by dust. Three pieces will be enough.No need for a long dispute, just try.

I like to finish my razors on a good solid canadian brick. Not a chinese brick, now, those are garbage. They'll put an edge on, but it'll be rough. Some of those latino bricks are ok, too, gotta use a lot of slurry in the beginning, then dilute it to just brick and water. Now, a Canadian brick will be the fastest cutter you ever saw...

Originally Posted by strudel

I like to finish my razors on a good solid canadian brick. Not a chinese brick, now, those are garbage.

While I've never used one, several experienced members whose opinion I respect, have advised that excellent finishers may be found amongst Chinese hones. Having only 34 posts I can not value your opinion enough to preclude others from being precedent.

Originally Posted by strudel

Now, a Canadian brick will be the fastest cutter you ever saw...

What is a Canadian brick?