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Thread: J-Nat club

  1. #321
    Senior Member Fikira's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mainaman View Post
    medium slurry works usually.
    If you go thicker consistency you just need to hone with it longer to make sure complete breakdown of the particles.
    Thanks!

    Do you put the slurry on a cloth?

    Thank you!

  2. #322
    Senior Member Lemur's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fikira View Post
    That looks very interesting! I'm using sanding paper and micromesh, and of course it's much work to remove the previous scratches!
    Now, because you'll get a nice hazy finish when honing on Jnat I wondered if you could get such a result when we're restoring!

    Is it possible to remove deep scratches with the powders or slurries? Does it saves time? Are the "wa" powders similar?
    And are there series of progressions in powders?

    Thanks!
    Yup, Wa powders are either powdered jnat or some synthetic, the synthetic is usually crap.
    It's not very good at removing metal so I start off with wet n dry and finish off with nugui powder.
    I use e piece of leather or a cotton ball with it, mix with oil or water but never ever let it go dry.
    If it dries when polishing it will scratch, if it dries as a paste it might form lumps that will scratch.

    Sure you could make a progression of different powders but since they are slow and only for final looks why would you.

    It doesn't have to be from jnats, any fine natural hone will do, I've tried lots of different ones on steel and also for making a nice surface on gold and silver.
    Hur Svenska stålet biter kom låt oss pröfva på.

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    Fikira (10-13-2013)

  4. #323
    Senior Member Fikira's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lemur View Post
    Yup, Wa powders are either powdered jnat or some synthetic, the synthetic is usually crap.
    It's not very good at removing metal so I start off with wet n dry and finish off with nugui powder.
    I use e piece of leather or a cotton ball with it, mix with oil or water but never ever let it go dry.
    If it dries when polishing it will scratch, if it dries as a paste it might form lumps that will scratch.

    Sure you could make a progression of different powders but since they are slow and only for final looks why would you.

    It doesn't have to be from jnats, any fine natural hone will do, I've tried lots of different ones on steel and also for making a nice surface on gold and silver.
    Great! Thank you very much!
    It's now clear that's really useful after the sanding stage, I'm looking forward to experiment!

    Most kindest regards,

    Jethro

  5. #324
    Senior Member Brighty83's Avatar
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    Below is another little Nakayama Karusu..

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    This stone is a fast cutter although it is on the small side to what i like and a little on the softer side for razors. But still a nice stone
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  6. #325
    Senior Member Brighty83's Avatar
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    A few more of my Nagura small stones

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    The slurry from the bottom left stone feels like un whipped cream, very silky! lol
    Last edited by Brighty83; 10-17-2013 at 12:04 AM.
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  7. #326
    Senior Member Brighty83's Avatar
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    One last nagura photo for tonight

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    This little Nakayama (the one at the back) is weighing in at 1.6kg
    Last edited by Brighty83; 10-16-2013 at 02:33 PM.
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  8. #327
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    Name:  20131212_171508.jpg
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    Top left and clockwise
    Ikarashi, ohira kiita, nakayama asagi koppa, shoubodani, shuobodani 100. Ozuku asagi, ozaki suita, nakayama asagi mizu,kouzaki, umegehata gousa, and tsushima black. And about 15 tomos and asani naguras.(not pictured)

  9. #328
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    Assorted tomos and naguras including yae botan and koma. A lot of the big ones look the same but they are very different shades ,textures and hardness.

  10. #329
    Pi3
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    Bill, that is a crazy collection! I'm totally jealous.

    Cheers.
    Rule #32 – Enjoy the Little Things

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  12. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxim207 View Post
    Last one for today

    Ohira Range suita





    I think the stone you just sent me is this stone's baby brother!
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