Thread: Raising a slurry with a diamond plate. What have been your results

I use a cheap Smith's 325 grit to raise a slurry on all my stones. The real objective with any slurry is to suspend the root stone grit particles in a liquid slurry to speed up the cutting process. The diamond does this beautifully for me. I have essentially abandoned any other method because it leaves no secondary particles from the slurry stone and is much faster than any thing else I have used.

I have a well worn DMT 325 that I use to smooth the stone after lapping with DMT 120.
I have 1.2k Atoma that I do not like for slurry either.
Best results for me so far are with nagura/tomonagura combo.

Originally Posted by Lynn

I actually have found that the slurry from the DMT's does not work as well for me, especially on the naturals...The generic slurry stones or finer stones seem to be very consistent through out the process....

This is what I have found...Almost all of my honing is done 'using the one stone method' now (after bevel set) and I like the consistency of using a series of Naguras as well, whether on a Jnat, Thuringian, LI or even occasionally a Translucent Arkansas.

Originally Posted by proximus26

Stupid question,

does slurry stones can be exchanged between stones. And I do not mean Jnat but for example I have two C12K stones, but different one and only one has slurry stone. Can I use this slurry stone for both stones. Both stones create similar slurry.

Br

Absolutely, Experimentation is big part of this hobby. I've used a c12k slurry stone on my Escher or Thuringian in lieu of an Escher slurry stone with great results....

I've read that old school Japanese don't use diamond plates to create slurry so I've decided not to either. I use a Tomo and leave it at that.

I most often use my DMT 3.25"X2" (Credit card size) D3C and D3F for raising slurry on my stones. Here's a link:

Dia-Sharp® Models | DMT® - Diamond Machining Technology

They are about the size of a nice slurry stone, and work really well. Much easier than using my big D8C to kick up some slurry. You also waste a lot less slurry by using the small cards, and swiping the last bit of the slurry off on the base hone.

I prefer using them when I want to test the true heart of a hone, without any cross-contamination of another stone type. Base hone slurry on the base hone itself. IMO, this is the true test of a natural hone.

Of course, if you start including other slurries on the hone, you open up a whole new can of worms...and sometimes that can of worms can be wonderful!

For an absolute smooth finisher on a hone that already has a very smooth surface, I tend to drip quite a bit of SRD's CrO2 on top of my hone to use as a slurry. It tends to fill the microscopic voids in the hone, and makes for an incredible edge. Especially on something like a C12K or good Thuringian (Escher or similar)

Enjoy!

'Not qualified to talk about tomo vs diamond plate - I've not used tomos.

On the recommendation of the seller (So Y.), I started with, and have used only the diamond plate - Atoma 1200. Before the Atoma came, I used the dmt325. Both worked fine. Any deficiencies at that time were my own - not the gear.

200 blades later w/ the Asagi, and I still use Atoma and am very happy w/ my edges. Stefan once posted about the diamond plates scoring the surface of the stone. I can see the scratches, but can't say they've affected the edges. They're about the same as when there were no scratches.

For reference, I typically do 3 figure '8's with almost no pressure to raise slurry. The slurry is so light that if it were fully distributed over the face of the stone you wouldn't know there is any there. I run alot of circles, then some X strokes, usually diluting to clear water or just before the water is completely clear. The water running up the face of the blade is how I gage how much slurry remains - how milky looking is it? Lately, I've experimented w/ stropping strokes for a finish, doing 5-8 strokes w/ light pressure, then 5 or so w/ no pressure. I'm pleased w/ the results so far, which is on about 20 blades.

On my first Jnat (a Nakayama--I'd guess lvl 5 hardness) it first worked only w/ thick slurry, which I raised w/ my well-worn DMT 325. The edges were still the benchmark I strive for today. Closest to "barbershop" I've ever gotten. Then I lapped into a bum layer & some told me the only reason my edges were no longer good was that I was using a DMT for slurry--it worked great before. Then I lapped back into another good layer & it worked well both w/ slurry & a clear water finish. I was still using the DMT for slurry... The stone didn't seem to care. My current Oozuku still reflects light when tilted even after being lapped w/ the same DMT--it is the only stone I've ever had that really seems to care what you make slurry with; the rest (coticules, Eschers, Thurris) had no preference, but this one does, so I mainly use the tomonagura on it.

I do understand we don't want huge scratches in our stones, but don't we run the risk of glazing if we make the stones too smooth, especially if our naguras are softer? It seems like we'd over time cover them w/ a mix of broken down (no longer abrasive) slurry & swarf & the bound up grit would no long sit just below the surface for the final polish; that is to say, we'd be polishing primarily on swarf instead of abrasive. Wouldn't that dull the tip of the bevel slightly? Not attacking anybody here; just trying to answer some questions I've always had. In the end, I think whatever method anybody finds is the most consistent for them is the one they should use on their stone.

UPDATE: I did lots of playing around on my big Oozuku & sure enough, the reason the DMT wasn't working was all due to pressure--specifically I was using too much of it. On the tomonagura, too actually, although it's more tolerant. I couldn't figure out why my edges weren't getting sharp enough on that stone when used w/ DMT slurry (keep in mind, the stone reflects images very well when tilted, so you'd think it would still work)--I looked @ the bevel w/ the naked eye & under the scope & found that it looked sandblasted as opposed to matte--I could actually see scratches in it. I figured the slurry was not breaking down & right about then, the lightbulb came on. I was using too much pressure to make slurry!

My D8C is so slow now it takes over 2 minutes to raise a good slurry when used w/ no pressure. I was trying to expedite & the result was a chunky slurry. Just for fun I tried pressure w/ the tomonagura & the same thing happened. I then made slurry correctly w/ the DMT & honed as usual--a modified Iwasaki protocol using a medium slurry, working it, palm stropping to remove the false edge (I do notice a difference doing this) & then up to 10 ultra-light strokes on water only. No dilution usually. THe result was a very nice matte chrome or "opaque mirror" the relfected uniformly & beautifully under sunlight w/ just a super fine haze. No visible scratches at all. The shaves on both test razors were to die for; I honestly preferred them to my CBN edges! TRue barber shaves. Zero burn from citrocol.

I still sort of prefer to use tomonagura just for the tradition aspect (plus less waste of expensive stone), but the diamond plates can work too I think, provided they are 1)high quality, 2) very well worn so the stone still reflects images when tilted--no visible scratches when the stone is dry(!) 3) used w/ only the weight of the plate; too much pressure can & will cause a chunky slurry that does not break down under razor-honing pressure.