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Thread: Ceramic Naniwa 12000?
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09-14-2012, 09:53 PM #11
Interesting. I've just ordered my whole Naniwa set. I went for the Chosera 1K, then SS 3K, 5K, 8K and 12K. I got them from a website in germany as naniwa supply them with stones without the plastic holder which is normally glued or screwed in. I've bought a stone holder so it means I should be able to use both sides prior to getting the truing stone out.
I've not honed yet. Where would you advise I start? I've got around a dozen shave ready razors so do you think I should start with those on the 12K or the 8k?
Bevel setting and all that i will do in the future. Just wanted to get the whole kit in.
Do you know if the stones are ready to go or do they need lapped? really looking forward to giving them ago.
Cheers
John
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09-14-2012, 10:04 PM #12
I just got the 1k, 3k and the 8k. Definitley lap them. I did the checkerboard with a pencil and all three stones were humped in the middle. If I were you I would keep one pro honed razor untouched so you have something to compare your honing to it.
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09-14-2012, 10:12 PM #13
Yes, I've also ordered the Naniwa flattening stone; I think it can be used with the aluminum oxide powder or just water. I dont want to go near any of my vintage razors until I have some idea in what Im doing. But buying cheap eBay 10quid jobs to practice on will probably require bevel setting, but I've got to start somewhere.
Is it true the Naniwa stones just need a little water, as oppose to soaking them for 15mins like the Nortons?
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09-14-2012, 10:16 PM #14
John, in my opinion, if your razors are/were shave ready it might not be necessary to go down to the lower grits initially. They probably just need touching up with the 12k. Given that you know what shave ready is, I guess you can then tell if the 12k is doing the trick or not. If not, I would then go to the 8k.
Having said that, I'm no expert but it seemed to work for me (beginner's luck maybe?)
Cheers,
AshLast edited by turando72; 09-14-2012 at 10:22 PM.
Kurtz (Apocalypse Now): "I watched a snail crawl along the edge of a straight razor. That's my dream; that's my nightmare. Crawling, slithering, along the edge of a straight razor... and surviving."
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09-14-2012, 10:19 PM #15
I soak mine for about 5 minutes. Some just spritz water and go. I just figure its a wetstone a should stabilize in water before using but thats just me.
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09-14-2012, 10:20 PM #16
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09-14-2012, 11:03 PM #17
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Thanked: 2591The Super Stones are not ceramic, the grit is resin bound.
Stefan
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09-15-2012, 04:01 PM #18
Ceramic is a very broad ranged word and can mean quite a few different materials.
When talking about ceramic it can mean a clay based material, a form of glass, or aluminum oxide. A true 100% ceramic whetstone is usually aluminum oxide sintered just under aluminum oxides melting point fuzing the particles together but keeping it's abrasive form.
It's like the word whetslate, a term used for any natural rock good for making whetstones (an old term).
I would like to hear from someone who owns the pink 12k SS and the "new ceramic" 12k SS to see if they are indeed different or not.
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09-15-2012, 04:07 PM #19
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Thanked: 2591
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09-15-2012, 04:28 PM #20
So, how does it differ from say, the Shapton GS series. I guess you could use it between the 8k and 16k GS?
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