Thread: Norton 8K

Try not to get too caught up in the scratch pattern you see and how polished it looks. Sometimes this can be helpful but more helpful is how the razor shaves. I use magnification mainly to make sure my bevel is even and to make sure no microchips are there.

Also, if you are getting a satisfying shave from your 8K with pastes then there is really no need to do anything further. When using more refined grit manmade polishing stones (like a 12 or 16K) you will notice improvement by using essentially the same methods you did on your 8K. But, naturals usually require their own unique methods to extract some gain on your edge. Slurry or water only, more strokes (usually), lighter strokes (most usually), different stoke methods are just some of the changes we tend to make when moving to a natural finisher. There are endless combinations that are effective here. It is fun to experiment and find your unique way to dial in your edge. When you do realize that it is not the only way. It is most fun when you find something that works very well and make it repeatable.

Let me just share what I would try FWIW:

An example experiment might be; (after your 8K)50 very light 45 degree x-strokes on light slurry on your very well lapped Coticule, then 50 of same on water only THEN 10 laps on crox (only 10 so you don't lose that coticule feel), 100 laps leather.

Another experiment would be; (after your 8K) put 1 layer of tape on your razor: Go back to your 8K and put 10 laps on it then repeat above. This would put a very very slight and nearly invisible yet effective microbevel on the edge.

Regarding PHIG's; A good PHIG is good but a bad PHIG is VERY bad and frustrating. When in doubt I opt for the Naniwa 12K. It works every time.

I have seen the "avoid getting hung up on scratch pattern" advice before and try not to. I will try your example #1 with my next razor. I tend to use a layer of tape anyways and adding a second layer to create a secondary bevel speaks against my laziness

I will be taking a look for Smith's honing solution, anyone know for certain if it's available in Canada? I have found that some things discussed on these international forums is sometimes unavailable!

I'll check back in later tonight/tomorrow about how my Coti honed razor shaves.

Cheers

AWESOME! I don't mean awesome in the sense that I've mastered the Coti and had the most comfortable shave of all time. The shave was much better than any if my earlier attempts at the Coti, however my face is irritated (no blood though). That said it was a full two passes and I'm ultra smooth in most places. So what changed? I think this time I started out with a full pretty thick slurry, which was diluted with a SINGLE drop of water every 30 laps, I wasn't scared to do the extra laps in slurry, I just went for it. Up till now I had been coming off the 8K and only doing 30 laps on water, I don't think that was enough. I'm still not there though. I think I need to continue working on my pressure. I also think I need more laps as I progress (this Coti was meant for refreshes and is only 5"X1.5", probably should have mentioned that earlier). Please continue sending advice my way, it's great that you have all taken your time to help me and I appreciate it very much.

PS - my belgian Blue stone arrived today, but that's another thread . Actually my long term goal is to be able to hone a razor (after bevel setting) on all natural hones. I have the Blue now and the little Coti plus an LI that I've put away for the moment as I'm not really sure about it.

Ill continue to update as I go

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Just saw you have 2 C12Ks. Rub them against each other for final finish then burnish with steel. Should give you a nice smooth face when you get back the C12K.

Give the Smith’s a try on the Coticule and do more laps with just water, Smith’s and light pressure even strokes at the end. 2-3 drops on a wet stone, it’s about 6 bucks at Ace or Lowes.

Recently I gave this advice to another member who was disappointed with his Coticule, he was amazed with the results. He was so stoked on the stuff, I think he’s drinking it now.

I suspect the oil lifts the edge a bit, so it only touches the tips of the grit on the stone and there by polishes the edge. It works great on Coticules and Thüringen stones & is water soluble so it does not damage the stone, washes off.

Just curious. Why do you need to go to all this trouble if the stone is actually a fine grit finisher ?

Mike

Yes, more laps on a smaller narrower stone. The blade is spending much less time on the stone, so you have to do more laps to get the same amount of time on the stone. On a 1.5 stone at least twice the amount of laps

Onimaru

It is just lapping perhaps to a higher level and you only have to do it once. The Chinese stone is a hard stone, when I bought mine a couple of years ago, it was pretty rough and after lapping with a DMT, I was not impressed with the results. So I lapped it as I have with Finishing Arks in a method that has worked for me. I can get an edge from my C12K, but there are better options in my opinion. It is not a stone I would recommend especially to a novice honer.

Many folks seem to have problems with Arks and C12Ks as finishing stones and it could be the face is just too rough and needs lapping to a smoother finish.

As for the Smith’s Honing Solution, I do not know why it works, but with naturals it does work well, it only cost a few dollars.

Thanx for the explanation Euclid.
A good Jnat works just fine when lapped with a diamond plate so that leads me to think that some of these stones may not be as fine as believed so the extra polishing helps. eg as with Spyderco UF's actually made of fairlly coarse grit but work well with a smooth polish.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

It is just lapping perhaps to a higher level and you only have to do it once. The Chinese stone is a hard stone, when I bought mine a couple of years ago, it was pretty rough and after lapping with a DMT, I was not impressed with the results. So I lapped it as I have with Finishing Arks in a method that has worked for me. I can get an edge from my C12K, but there are better options in my opinion. It is not a stone I would recommend especially to a novice honer.

Many folks seem to have problems with Arks and C12Ks as finishing stones and it could be the face is just too rough and needs lapping to a smoother finish.

As for the Smith’s Honing Solution, I do not know why it works, but with naturals it does work well, it only cost a few dollars.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/hones...ml#post1140451


See post #16

There are different "Types" of PHIGs, the hardest ones respond very well to being treated like an Arkie